Europe

Iceberg A23a — until recently the world’s largest iceberg

From the Falkland Islands, we began a long journey mostly eastward to South Georgia island. We spent three full days at sea before reaching this very remote and very rugged corner of the earth. The first two days were pretty uneventful. But on the third day we started to get a taste of what the world is like in the Southern Ocean — especially when we came across Iceberg A23a, a phenomenon of unbelievable scale.

This iceberg broke off from Antarctica in 1986. It was the largest iceberg on earth, with a surface area of 1,500 square miles, about the size of Luxembourg. It weighed a trillion tons. For its first 30 years it settled on the ocean floor near the continent. But in 2020 it freed itself and began moving northward. When it reached the somewhat warmer waters near South Georgia in 2025 it began shrinking and breaking into smaller pieces. These walls are still miles long and stick up 130 feet above the water. And the other 90% remains below the surface. It is mind-boggling to see.

We see lots and lots of icebergs as we approached South Georgia, though none are anything like the scale of A23a

A sunset from our dinner table aboard Le Lyrial

South Georgia — today part of the British overseas territory of South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands — was first discovered in 1675 by Anthony de la Roché, who named it after himself. Captain James Cook was the first to land here, and he renamed it for his king, George III, as Isle of Georgia. For the next century seal hunters frequently came to make their fortunes. And by the early 20th century whaling stations were established. Some 175,000 whales were caught in these waters and brought to processing plants here to extract and export whale oil.

That industry came to an end in the 1960s, only after causing immense damage to the ecosystem of South Georgia — and largely wiping out the whale population. But more recent conservation efforts are a model of success. An eradication program has removed deer, rats, and mice introduced by the whalers. Serious fishing regulation and visitor monitoring have helped restore the native populations of flora, fauna, and marine life. The island is again home to millions of Antarctic fur seals, several hundred thousand King penguins, and tens of millions of native birds. And the whale population is growing healthy again.

So far we’ve spent one day exploring South Georgia, and we’ve got two more days ahead of us. Our first landing was at Salisbury Plain, where we were greeted by huge numbers of fur seals and King penguins. Rain and gloom added to the drama of the landscape but made it rough to take pictures. But eventually the rain let up and made for a much more enjoyable visit. Later that afternoon we went ashore at Fortuna Bay, a beautiful enclosed harbor where the weather was so calm and sunny it was like we were in a radically different place. Everybody had to shed all the layers we were wearing.

We’re got two more days of adventure here in South Georgia, but I’ve got to get these pics posted before they build up too much. You’re going to see a fair number of penguins and seals here, but don’t worry, lots more are coming!

One of the glaciers that wrap around the Salisbury Plain, with thousands of birds and animals to the right, and one of our zodiacs in the center

The welcoming committee as we stepped off the zodiac onto South Georgia at Salisbury Plain

The spectacular landscape of Salisbury Plain

King penguins conferencing

It is surreal to wander around this place among all these creatures

In the background a glacier spills out from the mountains

Mama fur seal and her pup

As we climbed back into the zodiac, these fur seals sure seemed like they wanted to play around with us. Our guides had to work to shoo them away.

The sunshine covered coast at Fortuna Bay

King penguins enjoy the sunshine while fur seals frolic in the water

Basking in the sun

We climbed up to a bit of a viewpoint of all the life teeming below

Looking back to the river lined with penguins, our ship Le Lyrial, and a couple bright white icebergs in the harbor

How cute is that guy?

Estelle Manor in Oxfordshire

For our last stop on our UK summer adventure, we took a taxi just a half hour from Oxford to stay at Estelle Manor, an imposing manorial hotel in Oxfordshire and a destination unto itself.

When I booked hotels for this trip I chose Estelle Manor based on a stellar rating in the UK newspaper The Telegraph, whose reviews I use a lot for trip planning around the world. In fact this is one of just two hotels in the UK to be awarded a perfect 10 by that paper. So for our final stop I decided to splurge on a nice suite here.

Strangely I must not have cross-checked TripAdvisor reviews at that time, which I virtually always do. (I research hotels a lot and like to process lots of opinions.) A few weeks ago I did pay a visit to TripAdvisor, and the reviews of Estelle Manor were horrible. So many reviews trashed the place, their sleazy business practices, the chaotic check-in, the dirty rooms, the bad food, and the terrible service. One reviewer went on and on about how disgusting and filthy the gym was.

How could the Telegraph assessment be so wildly different from everyone else’s opinion? I dreaded ending our trip at this expensive, crappy place. And my reservation was non-refundable. How did I screw this up so badly?

We arrived and approached the check-in process with dread. But it wasn’t as chaotic as a lot of reviewers said. In fact, Svetlana was super gracious and informed us that they’d upgraded us to the best suite in the hotel. The room was truly spectacular. The restaurants — one British/French, one Chinese, one Japanese — were incredible. The public spaces were stunning, buzzy, and stylish. The service was perfection. And the gym was one of the best hotel gyms we’d ever encountered.

What on earth happened? The best I can guess is that somebody (A competitor? A disgruntled customer or employee?) orchestrated an on-line attack on this place. Cuz it’s one of the best hotels we’ve ever been to. Worth a splurge. A perfect finale for our UK summer.

One of the buzzy, beautiful lounges at Estelle Manor

Our incredible room at Estelle Manor

Sunday roast

Beautiful sashimi at the Japanese restaurant

We did tear ourselves away from Estelle Manor for a morning visit to Blenheim Palace, the home of the Dukes of Marlborough and the birthplace of Winston Churchill. I was there in 1992 with my parents and fondly remember having a great tour. Sometimes great memories can’t be relived. This time Blenheim had a lot of disruptive renovation going on. And It was very crowded, in no small part because a huge auto show was taking place on the grounds. Less than perfect, but still kind of an amazing place.

Blenheim Palace, possibly the most audacious home in Britain

Winston Churchill was a man of many talents. This is the room where he was born, decorated with his own paintings.

Exploring the gardens of Blenheim

Britain’s biggest auto show was also taking place at Blenheim

There were thousands of fancy cars here

Winston Churchill himself!

So now we head home. We booked this trip to escape the heat and humidity of a New York summer, and we did so quite successfully. The temperatures rarely exceeded 70°F (21°C). We didn’t get any beach weather, but we didn’t bake either. We had plenty of mist and gloom, enough to be atmospheric. But we hardly ever had enough rain to stop us from doing anything. Not bad! So now we go home for the fall season we love in NYC. See you there!

You probably can’t tell from the picture, but just as we arrived at Heathrow airport for our flight home some of the nastiest, windiest, rainiest weather of the whole trip moved in

Bart, Ann, Mark & Jim wandering and catching up in The University Parks

Our penultimate stop on this nine-week exploration of the UK was Oxford, home of course to Oxford University, the oldest university in the English-speaking world. (The oldest university in Europe, if you’re wondering, is the University of Bologna while the oldest university in the world is the University of Al Quaraouiyine in Fez, Morocco. Yeah, I didn’t know that either.) Back when we were in Cambridge University we learned that the town was named because early on it had one of the first bridges over the River Cam. And Oxford? You might guess that it got its name because at a narrow and shallow part of the Thames River oxen would ford the river. Who’d have guessed? At any rate no expansive trip through England would be complete without at least a quick stop here.

I have to say, we both found it hard to fall in love with Oxford. Maybe it was the cold, overcast, occasionally rainy weather, maybe it was just that we’ve overloaded on old historic cities in England, but first impressions weren’t great. Both of us though came to really like the city. I’ll explain why.

Imposing architecture and threatening skies in Oxford

First, though, a highlight of the stop was a quick visit with our old Cambridge, MA neighbors Bart and Ann. They were in the area visiting a cousin of Bart’s (his only first cousin it turns out which I find amusing; you see, I have literally dozens of first cousins) and so they drove over to Oxford for lunch with us. Walking around with them a bit, having lunch, and just catching up was great fun.

And speaking of lunch. Way back early in the trip in Cambridge, England, we discovered an Indian restaurant called Dishoom. We loved it. We found that there was a Dishoom in Edinburg and loved that one too. But there were no more Dishooms as we wandered through Scotland, Wales, and back into England until Oxford. I was a little concerned that we had built our hopes up too high and I’d be disappointed but no worries – it was as fabulous as we remembered. So we went back for lunch the next day, too. And to make it all better yet, we’ve learned that they’re opening their first U.S. restaurant some time next year in New York City – lower Manhattan even. I’m afraid we’ll never eat at home again!

Lunch at Dishoom. Or I should say, one of our lunches at Dishoom.

On our arrival day, then, we spent much of it with Bart & Ann. The next day we scheduled a tour of Oxford University with Alumni Tours, the same company we used in Cambridge. As the name suggests they have alumni giving the tours (though in this case she was a current student, but close enough) and they can give a real flavor for the school. She showed us around a bit, told some good stories, and it was OK. Not really worth two hours, and maybe that’s why neither of us fell in love with the city right away.

Rose, our tour guide, is studying physics and philosophy. I suspect she’s pretty smart.

But then when we had time on our own, we really came to appreciate it. I wandered around the core city for a while and went into a bookstore called Blackwell’s. Today it’s a huge store and part of a large chain of academic bookstores but it started a tiny shop, literally just 12 square feet. It grew and grew, taking more floors and more buildings and even remained family owned until 2022. I could have spent hours in there wandering around finding unusual and interesting books. I have to say if you enjoy reading British history, this is the place for you.

An underground space at Blackwell’s

After an hour or so there I looked at the map and realized that Oxford sits on the Thames River, so I figured I’d go see what the river looked like this far north of London. And there I discovered this great walking/running/biking path along the river, plus – this being a college town of course – lots of people in various crew configurations. It was beautiful.

It’s worth adding just how much I’ve loved these trails in England. Many of them (including the trail along the Thames River here) are part of the National Cycle Network, some 13,000 miles of shared use paths, disused railways, minor roads, canal towpaths and traffic-calmed routes in towns and cities. I’ve walked, run, and bicycled on a number of these routes and they’re usually well marked, gently engineered, and in reasonably good condition. And what I honestly love is that they’re really well used; you always see people out getting their exercise and enjoying nature. It’s truly a fabulous national asset.

Lots of shells out on the Thames

OK, so that’s how I fell in love with Oxford. And Mark? It really wasn’t until our last morning before checking out and heading to our final destination that it all clicked for him. After breakfast he went out and decided to pay the £10 (roughly $13.50) to tour Magdalen College. You see, for the most part tourists can’t get in to see the grounds of most of the colleges that make up Oxford University. The tour we did took us into Trinity College and a little bit of the Divinity School, but that was it. But unlike Cambridge University, here in Oxford the colleges will sell you access.

So with an hour or so to kill Mark bought his ticket to Magdalen College and just thought it was beautiful. I mean, it even had its own deer park! Seeing the University close up like that from the inside was all it took. So while after a day-and-a-half Mark wasn’t too keen on Oxford by the time we had to leave he was wishing we’d had another day here. But we don’t. One more quick stop and then it’s back to New York.

The deer park at Magdalen College

While they have to pose for tourists, apparently the deer get a 10-minute break every so often

On the edge of Magdalen College

Christ Church college and it’s War Memorial Garden. That’s the Cathedral up there and oddly this is one city where we didn’t go into the Cathedral. Just never got around to it…

The Thames River in Oxford with a faint rainbow barely visible

A cozy breakfast cappuccino with rainy streets outside

The Bridge of Sighs. When Cambridge University built one, Oxford had to, too. Allegedly, this one is one inch wider than the one in Cambridge.

A real rainbow

The Radcliffe Camera, named after the funder named Radcliffe and the Latin name for room, camera. It’s a circular library which … doesn’t really work well when you think of what book shelves look like. Hint – they’re not curved.

Part of the grounds of Trinity College

And one last view of Magdalen College