USA

A wonderful visit in San Francisco with my brother John and his family: Ava, me, Jasmine, Alma, John, Jim, Nico

We usually spend July and August traveling, in order to escape the brutal New York heat and humidity. But this year we did things a bit differently because we’ve so badly wanted to spend time in Southern Italy, which is lovely in the early fall but unbearably hot in summer.

So we divided the “summer” into two pieces — July in Bali and September/October in Southern Italy.

That left us about a six-week gap in August and early September. And somehow that gap got jam-packed with domestic travel opportunities — to Delaware, Vermont, Michigan, and California — that we somehow couldn’t say no to. It’s made for a pretty crazy year (and possibly just too much travel!) but I guess that’s what we like to do.

In mid-August we did a little three-day journey to Delaware to visit our friends Dan and Lorraine at their beach cottage. Their place is in the lovely town of Lewes, just north of the much busier and more chaotic Rehoboth. Quite a few political types from Washington, DC have places in Lewes, and we really enjoy spending time with Dan and Lorraine and their super interesting friends in that community.

On previous trips to Lewes we’ve rented a car in New York and driven down, though we really hate the drive out of and back into NYC — as well as the two hours on the dense New Jersey freeways. So this time we took the Amtrak train from Penn Station to Wilmington, then rented a car for the shorter and relatively relaxing journey across Delaware to Lewes. Big improvement!

We had a lovely time on the beach with Dan & Lorraine — until a little rainstorm came out of nowhere and chased us away

Our next trip was supposed to be to Michigan to visit my parents. We got to LaGuardia airport nice and early that morning but soon got word of a 20-minute flight delay. It had the ominous tones of bigger problems, and the next few hours produced extended delays over and over, as we watched dreary clouds move into the city. At one point Jim said, “Why don’t they just cancel it?” About 60 seconds later we each got the text message that indeed the flight was just plain canceled.

American Airlines offered new flight options starting the next day, but we were unable to do anything but reschedule the trip for two weeks later, because we had a trip to Vermont in the mean time. It was really the first time in all my travels that a flight got canceled and there was simply no way to re-book anything without postponing the whole trip. But in truth, we went to Michigan two weeks later and found ourselves kind of happy to be there then and not have the whole visit already long over with!

It’s been almost a year since my mom had a stroke, which has left her bed-ridden. After several months in a hospital, a rehab hospital, and two nursing homes, we were able to get her back home with excellent full-time care. It’s so much better to see her there! And she always seems thrilled to see us when we visit.


The other thrill of visiting my parents was hanging out with the friendliest cat in the world, who just appeared out of nowhere recently

An amazing sunset just up the road from my parents’ farm

The poor kitty when everyone has gone inside!

Our Vermont visit was built around our friend and former business partner, Nathaniel, who hosts an annual bonfire at his family farm. He always has 2 or 3 dozen interesting people from various parts of his life. People have meals together, engage in various sports and entertainments, and crash on couches or in tents or cute cabins. On Saturday night there is a huge bonfire.

The accommodation options being a little rustic for me, we actually stayed in a boutique hotel in nearby Hanover, New Hampshire. We enjoyed the little glimpse of the town and the Dartmouth college campus. And we greatly enjoyed spending time with Nathaniel and his interesting and eclectic set of friends. We attended the bonfire about 16 years ago, and were glad to make it back again after all that time. After a couple days there, we then traveled to central Vermont to spend a couple days at a really posh inn called Twin Farms. The trip gave us some really nice exposure to beautiful Vermont, a state I hadn’t spent much time in.

Jim relaxes by the pond at Nathaniel’s family farm

Nathaniel is truly a Renaissance man with a very wide variety of hobbies. In recent years he has built a 7-mile long 18-hole disc golf course through the woods of the farm. It was incredible!

Nathaniel just starting the fire that a few hours later would be a massive bonfire. Note the gigantic circle of wood around the perimeter. We would be feeding that fire for hours from wood cut to make the disc golf course.

The raging fire later that evening, as the guests toss endless logs and branches in to feed it. It turns out: It’s really fun to burn things!

Wandering around the pretty Dartmouth campus

Biking near Twin Farms

Relaxing by a cozy fire at Twin Farms

Another fun way to get around the property at Twin Farms

The last trip squeezed in between Bali and Italy was to Northern California. We planned this trip a long time ago in order to attend the opening night of our friend Thea Musgraves’ opera, Mary Queen of Scots at the San Francisco Opera. A big group of friends joined Thea at the opening in London last year when the English National Opera staged the show. And now the same production was moving to San Francisco.

Since we were flying across the country we decided to add a few days outside of San Francisco someplace. Our theater producer friend Jacob has a winery in Napa Valley and also runs Hollywood & Vine, which brings Broadway stars to perform concerts there. A great singer was performing, so we got tickets and booked three days in San Francisco and three days in Napa.

Incredible redwoods at Big Sur

A couple weeks before the trip we got an apologetic email that the singer had to postpone his appearance in Napa. While a bit disappointed, we re-thought the trip and decided to go to Big Sure instead, someplace we’ve never been. Suddenly we were even more excited about the trip.

Then as we arrived at Big Sur we heard worrisome news from the San Francisco Opera. Their orchestra was on strike! They ended up working out a deal to end the strike before we got to San Francisco, but it was too late to rehearse and pull off opening night of the opera. So that got canceled, too. So our big music-driven trip to California ended up entirely music-less.

Hardly a problem. We spent three days in stunning Big Sur. We visited some friends in San Francisco. And we spent lots of great time with my brother John and his family in San Francisco. It just so happened to be the weekend of John’s block party, one of his favorite events of the year. John sets up an amazing wine bar in his driveway under a canopy of palm trees, and many of his extended family and friends gather and celebrate. It was a super fun time! Who needs to get dressed up and go to the opera anyhow?

And now that all that travel is out of the way, we’ve just arrived in Italy, so stay tuned.

Big Sur from our porch

A nice warm pool in the cool air

Can’t get enough of those redwoods

The view from the pool

Sunset in Big Sur

With Alma under their amazing canopy of palm trees over the wine bar

Having a blast at the block party — Nico, Jasmine, John, me, Jim, Ava

The harbor in Soufrière, St. Lucia on Christmas Eve

I saw this bizarre looking boat after we left Virgin Gorda and did some Googling. It’s Black Pearl, the largest sailing yacht in the world, owned by some Russian billionaire.

A Christmas Eve toast from Jim

We are not normally “cruise people,” but we decided to take a Christmas break this year on a week-long Caribbean cruise. How did that come about? To begin with, the Internet marketing gods determined that I was a good target for ads from the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. Clicking on one of those ads certainly didn’t help matters, so they kept coming, and I found myself intrigued by the product.

This is a cruise line targeting a very different audience from other lines. The “yacht” holds hundreds rather than thousands of people, and it feels like a luxurious hotel — one that happens to be on the water. It is like being at a really nice resort. The food is great, the service is top-notch, and the room is ultra-comfortable. We’ve been meeting lots of interesting people, and they all seem to be having a great time. Many profess to also be “non-cruise people.” And some are downright addicted to this company.

One of the reasons we don’t normally do cruises is that we are travelers who want to do justice to the places we visit. We’re not normally content to drop into a place for half a day. We want to stay in places, get to know them, meet local people, enjoy the cuisine. But these Caribbean islands are places we’ve already been to or wouldn’t likely get to otherwise. So we’re pretty happy to enjoy the “resort” and pop off to a nice beach each day.

Our cruise was launched from San Juan, Puerto Rico, where we spent a couple days before boarding the yacht Ilma. So far we’ve made stops in Virgin Gorda (British Virgin Islands), Antigua (Antigua and Barbuda), and St. Lucia. Today we are anchored in Guadeloupe for Christmas. Our next two stops are in St. Barthélemy and St. John (U.S. Virgin Islands). Then back to Puerto Rico to catch a flight home. Meanwhile, Merry Christmas!

We spent a couple days in San Juan, Puerto Rico before boarding the cruise

Jim was on the beach in San Juan when storm clouds moved in out of nowhere. I was at the gym and was shocked to look out the window and see torrential rainfall…

…and minutes later it was all back to beautiful sunshine

Pool time aboard Ilma

The Baths in Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands

Swimming in The Baths

Climbing through the caves of Virgin Gorda

The spot in the caves known as The Cathedral

In The Cathedral

The stunning Dickenson Bay Beach in Antigua

A tiki bar off the beach at Dickenson Bay

Our “yacht” Ilma anchored in the harbor in St. Lucia

Some beach time in St. Lucia

We spent Christmas Day anchored near the lovely Îles des Saintes in Guadeloupe

Sunset in paradise

Palm trees in paradise

A cute little guy on our porch

From the volcano park we drove a few hours north and west to the sunny side of the Big Island for the final stop of our summer adventure in Polynesia. Kailua is the island’s second largest town. And it’s in a region called Kona. And apparently nobody can make up their mind about what to call the place, so it’s most frequently referred to as Kailua-Kona, as weird as that seems.

This is the stretch of the Big Island that is lined with beautiful beach resorts. And because it’s the Big Island, there’s a lot of volcano action, so the beautiful beach resorts are surrounded by lava fields. It’s an interesting and beautiful juxtaposition.

So we spent our last six days in Polynesia doing what we are very good at — enjoying a gorgeous beach and bunches of books and not much more. We had a rental car here, but it sat in the parking lot for six days because we weren’t motivated to leave the resort.

While we love nice beach resorts, we do tire a bit of fussy (and annoyingly expensive) resort restaurants. So we took a disproportionate share of our meals, sitting at the bar, at the restaurant that was more casual than the rest. And it turned out to be surprisingly homey, especially for Jim.

One great bartender turned out to be from Bemidji, Minnesota. Not only is she a member of the same Ojibwe tribe as Jim, but she is also the niece of Clyde Bellcourt, famed founder of the American Indian Movement. The other great bartender hailed from New Jersey, but his mother grew up in Billings Park, the same neighborhood in Superior, Wisconsin where Jim’s mom grew up. Weird connections at a fancy Hawaii resort!

And thus our adventure in Polynesia comes to a conclusion. As we await a long flight back to New York, I’ll just share the last pretty pics.

The beach in paradise

It’s not hard to spot Jim

A pretty relaxed lunch

From the beach we could see Maui in the distance, the beleaguered island that experienced so much tragedy while we were here

Frangipani blossoms always make me feel like I’m in a happy place

Palm trees and lava. That’s the Big Island.