Plazas, fountains, and monumental buildings in Clermont-Ferrand are built from lava rock
The lively back streets
The lava rock public buildings are very distinctive
If you are trying the get across the middle of France you might just end up in the Auvergne, a region of France that doesn’t usually make the tourist circuit. Its biggest city is Clermont-Ferrand, which is surrounded by a chain of volcanoes, called the Chaîne Des Puys. And that’s just what makes the town’s Gothic architecture so distinctive. The cathedral and many other central buildings are built from dark volcanic rock.
The Auvergne is an industrious region, and Clermont-Ferrand is the birthplace of the Michelin tire company and its travel related offshoots. It’s also been a rebellious place, home of the Gallic leader Vercingetorix, who led the rebellion against Julius Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. He’s a ubiquitous hero here today, even though his rebellion didn’t turn out so well. He ended up in a Roman prison for six years until he was assassinated by garrote.
For us, this was a quiet stop in a nice place where you hear virtually no English. It’s also the place where our remarkable weather started to turn into the kind of heat wave that can turn European travel pretty tough in August. The next week or so looks like a scorcher!
After two days here in Clermont-Ferrand, we’ll stop in Lyon for what looks like a couple very hot days. And then we’ll continue all the way east to the French Alps, hoping to find some cooler climes.
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption looms above the central shopping street in its dark Gothic splendor
Vercingetorix presides over the Place Jaude at the center of town
Lots of red at a steamy lunch
One night we found a Mexican place for a post-dinner sip of mezcal
Jim takes in the Place Jaude
A relaxing cafe break
Does it seem like all we ever do is eat?