Australia

The eponymous palms of Palm Cove along the Coral Sea shore

The eponymous palms of Palm Cove along the Coral Sea shore

We’re spending a couple weeks here in Queensland (yeah, cue the jokes: the two of us moving from Queenstown to Queensland..) and one of the things you learn is just how big this state is. As in BIG. Bigger than Alaska, by far the biggest state in the U.S. In fact, according to a list on Wikipedia, Queensland is the sixth-biggest national subdivision in the world, behind such behemoths as Greenland and a couple of what we would call Russian provinces. So there’s plenty to explore here.

Our next stop was Palm Cove, a little tourist-centered beach community a little south of Mossman (and thus just a little north of Cairns). What’s most obvious about Palm Cove is the beautiful Coral Sea, seemingly a paradise with the white sand beach, blue water, and swaying palm trees. What’s less obvious about Palm Cove is that you’ll likely die if you go in the water.

No shortage of warnings that dipping a single toe in the water could lead to a horrible death

No shortage of warnings that dipping a single toe in the water could lead to a horrible death

OK, maybe that’s a little overstated, but perhaps not much. Crocodiles infest the water near shore but, according to at least one local we talked with, they’re pretty unusual. The real problem this time of year is the infestation of poisonous jellyfish. As the temperatures rise, both air and sea, the jellyfish move in and their sting is potentially fatal. You only go in the water with full wetsuits which means, in practice, that no one goes in this time of year. Lots of biking and walking and jogging along the trails, but for those of us who don’t want to die too soon, no swimming.

Is it really a beach if you can’t go in the water?

What do you do if you’re in a beach town but can’t enjoy the beach beyond looking at it? Well, the hotels have nice pools, and you can still read and walk around.

A segment of the cableway traveling above the rainforest

A segment of the cableway traveling above the rainforest

And we did this cool day trip, the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. What’s a skyrail? Well, it’s a cableway spanning nearly five miles up and over the wet tropics rainforest with a couple stops along the way for short little walks. The town of Kuranda, a tourist destination since the early 20th century as a somewhat cooler alternative to Cairns’s summer heat, is at the end. There you can shop, have a beautiful walk through the rainforest and then along the Barron River, and have a decent lunch before getting on a scenic slow train back down to the coast. Thus “skyrail.” We were distinctly skeptical, knowing there was a chance it would be cheesy-touristy but it turned out to be a lot of fun.

Those are seriously bad restaurant ratings. Thank God TripAdvisor saved us from the looming lunch disaster.

Those are seriously bad restaurant ratings. Thank God TripAdvisor saved us from the looming lunch disaster.

Of course, the “decent lunch” part of that is premised on finding the right place. We walked around a bit and saw one place that looked good: decent menu, nice setting, reasonable prices. We were going to just stop in but decided to check it out on TripAdvisor first. Good thing. We’ve never seen a place trashed so consistently with Terrible ratings vastly outpacing any other categories. The reviews included words and phrases like “disgusting,” “vile,” “worst food ever,” “ridiculously overpriced,” and, my favorite, “seriously horrible.” We found someplace else to eat.

We’re in Queensland for another week or so before heading to Sydney for Christmas. Meanwhile, some more pictures from Palm Cove and the skyrail.

Mark as we prepare to set off on the Kuranda Scenic Railway. Originally built to service the mining industry in the area, for decades now it is primarily a tourist attraction. I loved the old-school feel of it, particularly the open windows!

Mark as we prepare to set off on the Kuranda Scenic Railway. Originally built to service the mining industry in the area, for decades now it is primarily a tourist attraction. I loved the old-school feel of it, particularly the open windows!

Yeah, open windows!

Yeah, open windows!

Part of the train ride was a pretty steep drop over sharp curves from the highlands but as we moved down you could get nice views of the train and countryside

Part of the train ride was a pretty steep drop over sharp curves from the highlands but as we moved down you could get nice views of the train and countryside

Barron Falls, from a viewpoint during one of the little stops on the cableway

Barron Falls, from a viewpoint during one of the little stops on the cableway

Our Barron Falls selfie

Our Barron Falls selfie

The walks at stops along the cableway aren't too rustic or challenging

The walks at stops along the cableway aren’t too rustic or challenging

Palms, sand, and the Coral Sea

Palms, sand, and the Coral Sea

And what blog post from Queensland in the spring would be complete without pictures of flame trees?

And what blogpost from Queensland in the spring would be complete without pictures of flame trees?

That's me, snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. As you can see, not too crowded.

That’s me, snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. As you can see, not too crowded.

Cairns is a typical jumping off place for all the adventure that northeast Australia has to offer, especially the rainforests and the Great Barrier Reef. We didn’t take advantage of all that in Cairns because we had the time to dig in a little deeper and get a little closer.

Our first stop from Cairns, then, was the Silky Oaks Lodge just outside of Massman, a little town near the World Heritage listed Wet Tropics of Queensland. These “wet tropics” stretch more than 250 miles along the northeast Australian coast and are noted for their natural beauty and rich biodiversity. Biodiversity indeed. Sitting on the balcony of our cabin just the first day a few parrots hung out playing or fighting, I couldn’t tell. And regularly you’d see the sunlight hit a stunning florescent blue butterfly that just made you swoon. I’m sure a serious nature guy would have seen more than butterflies and parrots, but they made me happy.

The pool at Silky Oaks Lodge

The pool at Silky Oaks Lodge

The lodge itself was beautiful, quiet and peaceful, set just inside the start of the rainforest itself. It was a perfect setting for me. You were clearly in a rainforest, heaving with lush plants and beautiful butterflies and parrots and all that kind of thing. But because it was on the edge, it was easy to step away and go for a run, too. Perfect.

The “quiet and peaceful” part was a bit of an issue one day, though, as they were renovating a cabin right next to ours. But we didn’t complain because when the manager found that we were planning on just laying low that day, with nothing scheduled except reading and relaxing, he offered us two free spa treatments to get us out of our room, so that worked out just fine. Beyond that the lodge was right on the Mossman River and, with an energetic 20-minute hike upriver on a well-marked trail, we could get to a beautiful and pretty remote swimming hole. Not the best swimming hole in the world, but a very pleasant place to swim, relax, and find a rock to read on.

How's that for a great swimming hole?

How’s that for a great swimming hole?

The big event from Mossman was a drive into Port Douglas down on the coast for a snorkeling adventure on the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s largest collection of coral reefs and truly a wonder of the world. Mark & I made it here once before, when we vacationed in Australia in 2004. It wasn’t a great experience for us then; we remember it as being too crowded, too many snorkelers in too small a space. This time, though, it was fabulous, definitely putting the Great into the Barrier Reef. There were only maybe 30 or 40 snorkelers on our boat, and we stopped at places with no one else around so there was plenty of room to spread out. No pictures, unfortunately, since we don’t have an underwater camera, but it was fabulous.

In some ways the most important part of our stop in the Wet Tropics was a realization by both of us that we’re getting tired of traveling like this. When we started in 2013 I assumed that after just a couple of years we would start spending longer periods – a month or even two – in any one place. We did stop for a month in Puerta Vallarta, but that was nearly two years ago and we’ve been going pretty steady ever since. Three-and-a-half years now of mostly three- and four-day stops is a little too much.

We’re still eager to spend the next couple weeks exploring Australia so no immediate change of plans but then we’re going to slow down. Probably rent an apartment and spend a month in Bali shortly after New Years, then maybe another month somewhere in Thailand. Both places we know we love. March will bring us more travel and adventure – we’re going to spend a few weeks in over March and April in Japan – but we’re ready for a couple longer-term stays. After we finish up with Australia.

Lunch at the lodge: steak, salad, glass of rosé, rainforest. Not bad.

Lunch at the lodge: steak, salad, glass of rosé, rainforest. Not bad.

Lots of this, everywhere you looked

Lots of this, everywhere you looked

Mark along Cairns's Esplanade

Mark along Cairns’s Esplanade

We left a cool, wet spring in New Zealand to fly to a hot summer day in Cairns, a city of about 150,000 on the northeast coast of Australia. I hadn’t realized just how tropical Cairns (pronounced something like Caehnz; the “r” is silent) was going to be. At about 17 degrees south of the equator it’s the equatorial equivalent of say Oaxaca in southern Mexico. So yeah, surprisingly hot, up around 90 degrees for much of the day, and a bit of a shock after our two weeks in New Zealand.

Mark's selfie amidst towering palm trees

Mark’s selfie amidst towering palm trees

First, though, we had to get through our flight from Auckland and a real rookie mistake we made. As we got to the check-in counter at Virgin Australia the woman asked for our Australian visas. “Visas? Australia doesn’t require a visa for Americans.” Ah, yeah they do. Now, they didn’t 12 years ago, the last time we were down under, but sometimes governments change requirements. We’d just never checked. Fortunately Air New Zealand is authorized to sell Australian electronic visas so we headed down to their desk and were set to go. Message to self, though: check on entry requirements in countries you haven’t been to in a while.

And then, the flight. Oh my God. Our seats were directly behind a Chinese couple and their 12- or 15-month old child. Who screamed. More than any child I’ve ever experienced in my 61 years. As in, Spawn of the Devil screaming. It got creepy after a while, when you realized that something, something was badly wrong. Was he being abducted? Was he horribly sick? Did he have a diaper pin sticking in him? You really felt terrible for him and his parents, or whoever those adults traveling with him were. And it went on and on and on, for probably 90 minutes of the two-hour flight. Crazy. And disturbing.

The Lagoon in the middle of the city is a great place to hang out

The Lagoon in the middle of the city is a great place to hang out

Finally, though, we got to Cairns and I really liked it, a perfect three-day stop. Not for the reasons everyone else likes it – it’s a magnet for people off to see the Great Barrier Reef and other adventure-type travels. We just wanted to settle into Australia for a few days, warm up, and dry out. We’re going to do a day trip out to the Barrier Reef from a later stop so we didn’t have any need to do anything in Cairns in particular.

These flame trees are native to Australia. They bloom in the spring and we seemed to time our visit perfectly.

These flame trees are native to Australia. They bloom in the spring and we seemed to time our visit perfectly.

So why did I like it? It’s just got a nice healthy-small-city-on-the-ocean vibe to it. The Esplanade is their coastal walking/running/biking/hanging out area and just an easy place to while away parts of the day. You can tell that the locals are pretty seriously into exercise, as there are all sorts of people doing all sorts of things throughout the day. There are even official signs posted showing the free exercise classes offered along the Esplanade throughout the day. And the Esplanade includes a man-made swimming lagoon that may be the biggest urban pool I’ve ever seen, with lots of fit, healthy Aussies hanging out all day.

Beyond that Mark & I took a long (and hot) walk one day up to a great Botanical Garden, and I made the mistake of going out of my way to go to a modern art museum that was supposed to be hip and happening, what BuzzFeed called “definitely worth a visit.” It wasn’t; in reality it was tiny and boring. Lunches were harbor-side, while we found a tasty Greek taverna for dinners.

The Flecker Garden in Cairns. Clockwise from upper left: Lipstick Palm, Orchid, a hybrid Brownea (a cross between a Rose of Venezuela and Panama Flame Tree), and another Orchid.

The Flecker Garden in Cairns. Clockwise from upper left: Lipstick Palm, Orchid, a hybrid Brownea (a cross between a Rose of Venezuela and Panama Flame Tree), and another Orchid.

And I was reminded of the value of advance planning while in Cairns. When we left Cambridge back in 2013 we had a couple prescriptions of Cipro, a miracle drug for, um, stomach problems. We haven’t needed it much, but when you do, you just thank God you still have the pills at hand. ‘Nuff said!

A lovely little salmon salad at our favorite outdoor harbor-side lunch spot

A lovely little salmon salad at our favorite outdoor harbor-side lunch spot

A clay plate by one Stephan Bird in the KickArts gallery. Bernard Leach is described as the "Father of British studio pottery." Apparently Mr. Bird has an issue with him.

A clay plate by one Stephan Bird in the KickArts gallery. Bernard Leach is described as the “Father of British studio pottery.” Apparently Mr. Bird has an issue with him.

Torch Ginger, used both for decoration and for flavoring Malaysian dishes

Torch Ginger, used both for decoration and for flavoring Malaysian dishes

Don't know what this was, but I liked it

Don’t know what this was, but I liked it