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A celebration and an haute cuisine adventure at Spiaggia -- Todd, Chris, Shawn-Laree, Mark, and Jim

A celebration and an haute cuisine adventure at Spiaggia — Todd, Chris, Shawn-Laree, Mark, and Jim

From Guadalajara we caught a direct flight to Chicago for the last stop of our 5 1/2-month stint in North America. Before heading to Bangkok for a new series of adventures in Asia, we spent two days in the Windy City celebrating an important milestone in the lives of old friends, Chris Sterling and Todd Vitale.

My friendship with Chris goes back to our freshman year in college nearly 32 years ago. On February 7 Chris and Todd celebrated 25 years together in the place where it all began. They met at Spiaggia, the spectacular Italian restaurant, Chicago landmark, and favorite dining spot of Barack and Michelle Obama. We were honored to join them and our friend Shawn-Laree O’Neil for an incredible dinner that night — at the restaurant where Chris, Todd, and Shawn-Laree all worked together back then as well.

On our second night we switched gears and met Chris and Todd for dinner at Girl and the Goat for a different kind of experience on the hot Chicago dining scene. This casual place serves innovative small plates and is bursting with life. Chris had to work to get seats for us, even on a Sunday night. Heck, our taxi driver even asked how on earth we managed to get into the place! But best of all we were joined by our friends Nina Fernandez and Sonia Arroyave. There is something about Nina and Sonia: When you get together with them, you cannot possibly not have fun.

Since we are barely equipped for winter weather we lucked out in Chicago, where our two days were warmer than usual for early February. But that was enough cold for us anyway, so we are headed back to warmer climes. We’re flying to Bangkok, and we intend to spend the next 5 months traveling toward, in, and around the Himalayas — through Vietnam, China, Bhutan, Nepal, and northern India.

For our big night out in Chicago, Jim and I had to dig out both the dressiest and the warmest clothes we own.

For our big night out in Chicago, Jim and I had to dig out both the dressiest and the warmest clothes we own.

Another memorable dinner at Girl and the Goat -- Chris, Todd, Mark, Nina, Sonia, and Jim

Another memorable dinner at Girl and the Goat — Chris, Todd, Mark, Nina, Sonia, and Jim

All bundled up again to say goodbye to great friends

All bundled up again to say goodbye to great friends

Mark & his mother celebrating the holidays

Mark & his mother celebrating the holidays

OK, that was a long break. We took six weeks off from blogging and really from our normal travel routine. We’re back on the road, now, so here’s the quick update.

Mark & I left Costa Rica just before Christmas and flew to San Diego where my brother and his family live out in the suburbs. My parents were there for several weeks – it’s warmer in San Diego in December and January than in Duluth – and my sister and her two kids were flying in for Christmas. Then right after Christmas Mark’s family – parents, siblings, spouses, and kids – came to spend a week in Carlsbad, the next town north from my brother’s place.

My sister Rebecca & sister-in-law Anita taking a very brief break from feeding us and taking care of … everything

My sister Rebecca & sister-in-law Anita taking a very brief break from feeding us and taking care of … everything

Mark & I are nothing if not efficient, and how much more efficient can you get at visiting with family than seeing damned near all of them in one swing through San Diego. So that’s what we did, 12 days driving around San Diego freeways, half at my brother’s house and half at the Sullivan family rental.

My niece Lily on Christmas morning, growing into a beautiful and charming young woman

My niece Lily on Christmas morning, growing into a beautiful and charming young woman

We had a great time with all of them, even spending one afternoon mixing the St. Georges and the Sullivans in my brother’s back yard. Don’t let them fool you about San Diego weather, though. It was pleasant enough some of the days, but on a few days it was downright cold, in the 30s to start the day. Still, a nice visit with family.

A special treat was meeting up in La Jolla for lunch with my long-ago coworker Bart & his wife Nina

A special treat was meeting up in La Jolla for lunch with my long-ago coworker Bart & his wife Nina

Early in January, then, we flew down to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, for four weeks. We’re going to a wedding in Chicago in early February (yeah, Chicago in early February), so we figured we’d stay close to the States. We’d stay in PV for four weeks, Mark would study Spanish, I’d go to the beach, maybe rent a bike for a few days. Well. Mark didn’t like the Spanish schools when we got there, and they don’t bicycle in Vallarta. So we went to the beach. A lot. Beach, food & drinks, sleep. Repeat for four weeks.

There you are - feet, sand, water. That's really all you need.

There you are – feet, sand, water. That’s really all you need.

There were few breaks in the routine. I flew back to Duluth for a weekend to see family, and Mark’s parents came down to Vallarta for a week to share some meals and a few drinks. But mostly it was beach, food & drink, sleep.

Now we’re in Ajijic, a little colonial lake town in Jalisco state, not too far from Vallarta. We’ll spend a couple days here, a few days in the capital city of Guadalajara, and then – after a brief stop in Chicago – off to Bangkok, our favorite Asian travel hub. Then it’ll really feel like we’re back on our adventure!

Kids would come down to the beach most mornings and surf

Kids would come down to the beach most mornings and surf

There are great restaurants in Puerto Vallarta. This was a Nicoise salad with seared tuna that I loved. In the background was a Caprese salad that was as good as anything you could get in Italy.

There are great restaurants in Puerto Vallarta. This was a Nicoise salad with seared tuna that I loved. In the background was a Caprese salad that was as good as anything you could get in Italy.

We had a little two-room apartment in a hotel just a block off the beach. The little kitchen was perfect for making breakfast. And no, the bottle of Maker's Mark was not for breakfast; it was left over from last night's Happy Hour.

We had a little two-room apartment in a hotel just a block off the beach. The little kitchen was perfect for making breakfast. And no, the bottle of Maker’s Mark was not for breakfast; it was left over from last night’s Happy Hour.

A view of the HOLLYWOOD sign from the back of the Batcave. Yes, the Batcave from the old Batman series.

A view of the HOLLYWOOD sign from the back of the Batcave. Yes, the Batcave from the old Batman series.

Shortly before leaving the U.S. in May 2013 we stopped in Los Angeles for a couple days to see friends. Our overwhelming sense then – our first visit to LA together – was that it was a city that made our friends happy. Even friends who were not known for being bright, smiling, happy people. In LA, though, they were remarkably happy. So, after our week-plus in Utah & Las Vegas, we stopped again in LA for a few days.

Blue skies and palm trees - that's Los Angeles

Blue skies and palm trees – that’s Los Angeles

The good news is, our friends are still happy. Something about the weather and the people and the pace of life just agrees with them. I have to say, though, I’m not sure I get it entirely. The big drawback for us was the need for cars. While there has been some improvement in public transportation, overwhelmingly to get anywhere you need a car. And that suggests all the traffic woes you can imagine.

That’s just not typical of most great cities. Obviously our old home in Boston had pretty good public transportation, and we got by our last five years without a car. You can get by just fine in New York, Paris, London, Hong Kong and lots of other cities we’ve been in without a car, certainly as a tourist. Not so in LA, though; it’s just not realistic to spend time there without spending much of it sitting in traffic.

Mummy of Herakleides

Mummy of Herakleides

So there you are. Great friends who love the city, but maybe I’m just not a West Coast kind of guy. I should add that the weather didn’t help matters either. It’s supposed to be pretty much always beautiful in LA, but there was quite the little heat wave while we were there, with temperatures hitting 100 degrees or close to it mid-day. Oh yeah, and a drought. I mean, who could have predicted that when you build a major metropolitan area in a desert region?

OK, enough complaining about LA. Our big cultural excursion was a tour of the Getty Villa, a museum dedicated to the arts of ancient Greece and Rome. Our favorite part was the Mummy of Herakleides, a 1900-year-old mummy that “combines the millennia-old Egyptian tradition of mummification of the dead with the Roman tradition of individualized portraiture.” And later I learned that one of the museum’s most prominent pieces, The Victorious Youth dating from about 200 BC, is part of a serious controversy with the Italian government. They have indicted the Getty’s former curator for trafficking in stolen antiquities and Greek authorities are investigating her; she claims she’s being hung out to dry for doing things everyone on the Board knew of and condoned. Sounds like fun!

A close up of the mummy's painted face. We thought this was really cool.

A close up of the mummy’s painted face. We thought this was really cool.

We had a great time visiting with friends, and we have the pictures to prove it. I hiked up the hill behind the big HOLLYWOOD sign and even went through the Batcave, the very cave that Batman drove the Batmobile in that classic 1960s sitcom, right there in Griffith Park by the start of the hike to the sign. I might not love cars, but I made an exception to pay my respects to the Batmobile! Oh, and we drove past Cher’s house. That’s right – a Roman-Egyptian mummy, the Batcave, Cher, and great friends all in one weekend. Who says LA ain’t grand?!?

First up on our visit with friends was dinner with Jarrett Barrios, former MA politician now the head of the LA area Red Cross

First up on our visit with friends was dinner with Jarrett Barrios, former MA politician now the head of the LA area Red Cross

Next up was afternoon tea with Judith, a great friend from her DC days. Now she's moved to LA, lost a bunch of weight, and can't understand why East Coast people work so hard.

Next up was afternoon tea with Judith, a great friend from her DC days. Now she’s moved to LA, lost a bunch of weight, and can’t understand why East Coast people work so hard.

That night was dinner with Paul & Keith, former Kennedy School classmates, along with Paul's wife Susie

That night was dinner with Paul & Keith, former Kennedy School classmates, along with Paul’s wife Susie

Touring the Getty Villa with Keith & Nick

Touring the Getty Villa with Keith & Nick

LA from behind the Hollywood sign. In real life that haze hanging over the city was an ugly brown, a sure sign that people there should drive less!

LA from behind the Hollywood sign. In real life that haze hanging over the city was an ugly brown, a sure sign that people there should drive less!

And in all it's glory, here's the Batcave, where scenes from the old series were shot. If you look for it on YouTube you can find a scene or two of the Batmobile screaming in or out of the cave - this cave, I should say.

And in all it’s glory, here’s the Batcave, where scenes from the old series were shot. If you look for it on YouTube you can find a scene or two of the Batmobile screaming in or out of the cave – this cave, I should say.