North America

Brunch with Randi & Dara – nothing but fun!

I guess when you live somewhere for the better part of 18 years you end up with a lot of friends to see on your return visits. After our Duluth-to-Key West road trip – and after passing from late winter in Duluth to summer in Florida – we flew north to Boston. And almost back to winter, it seemed, with temperatures in the upper 30s on our first day back. Soon though the weather perked up, spring sprang, and we were into a whirlwind of lunch and dinner visits.

The Charles River and Boston’s Back Bay on my first walk into Cambridge. The weather was cold and clammy.

By Saturday the weather had turned glorious and stayed that way the rest of our visit. Who ever heard of the weather turning from cold and wet on Friday to perfect for the whole weekend?

Although Mark was almost dreading the visit – too much scheduled, too many friends to see – it turned out to be wonderful. On our first afternoon in town we checked into the W in Boston’s Theater District and quickly headed to our old office in Somerville. It was a long walk but of course filled with memories. Then it was time to do a little visiting in the office – they continue to expand and have done a much better job than I ever did of insisting the landlord fix things up a bit – and off to Happy Hour with a bunch of the senior staff with whom we used to work. Mark & I both had a great time catching up with people and we had to almost be dragged away to have dinner with our friends Marc & David.

The one regret about the visit is that too often we forgot to get pictures with our friends. We were so busy talking during Happy Hour, for instance, neither of us took a single picture. Then out to dinner with Marc & David and we had so much fun we forgot to take a single picture. (Of course, we’ve traveled with them in Corsica, the former Yugoslavia, and the Dolomites, so there are plenty of pictures of them elsewhere on the blog….) And we didn’t always learn our lessons well; we had lunch late in our stay with friends Janet & Gavin … and no pictures. And then even when we tried it didn’t always work out: we had dinner one night with Deborah & Andy, great friends from graduate school and the pictures were just too dark and blurry to use.

Shayna & I toasting to our return

Whether or not there were pictures, though, it was so much fun to reconnect with so many friends over a few days. Just like our experiences earlier during this trip home in Virginia, Michigan, and Minnesota I really get the sense that if I have this much fun visiting with old friends and family, maybe we should spend more time in the States and even get a place to live. So after a week of house hunting in Miami Beach from here we’re going to New York City for two weeks to figure out if that’s where we want to live.

In the office with Torvic & Mark. Long ago we started “decorating” our office with campaign signs from the various clients. Here you can see a sign for Sen. Harry Reid, one of our very first clients; Prime Minister Justin Trudeau of Canada; and Marcony, successful candidate for School Committee in the city of Everett. Oh, and he’s also the husband of Mark (in the middle), head of client support.

Here I am with little Victoria, our newest friend

And here we are with Victoria and her parents Alex & Vlad. They made lunch for us and Victoria had the good sense to sleep through most of it so we could chat at length but then woke up long enough to utterly charm us.

Another photo from brunch with Randi & Dara

Dinner with John & Shayna. We hired John initially as a summer intern when he was in college. We recruited him back when he graduated … and now he’s the #2 guy in the company. That’s a pretty nice success story.

Our final dinner with Marcony, Amanda, Mark, and Roger. The four of them make Mark & I seem like political neophytes….

On one of my long walks I decided to walk past most of the places we lived over our total of 18 years in Cambridge

When I worked in downtown Boston we would sometimes go to the Barking Crab after work. Back then it was this isolated crab shack on the edge of downtown; popular, but really on the edge of things. Today there is an enormous amount of development in the area – much of it guided by urban development planning done by our friend Alex; true – and now that funky little place I used to hang out is surrounded by giant new buildings.

Spring burst out all over during our five days in Boston

I used to love forsythia season

You have to love Boston in the spring

And a farewell to Boston with a view of my favorite spot in the city, the Public Garden. I’ve long thought of this as the most beautiful urban spot in the country and after this weekend I’m more convinced than ever.

Who says we’re too cool to be total tourists? Here we are at the southernmost point in the continental U.S., closer to Havana than to Miami. Mark’s not certain, but he thinks there’s a very similar picture of his mother here … from a time when she was considerably younger than we are now!

It’s hard to believe that for all our travels over many years, neither Mark nor I have ever been to Key West. A prime tourist destination in general and one of the great gay destinations on earth … and we’d never been there. A big part of that is that we love Miami Beach so much that when we were working and had a few days off, that’s where we’d head.

So as we started thinking of this U.S. journey and had the brilliant idea of a road trip, we figured Key West should be our ultimate destination. After our week in Miami Beach, then, we picked up a new car for the five-hour drive south. The drive itself was fun; little towns, lots of water, a nice lunch stop at Chef Michael’s in Islamorada, just feeling more and more remote. And then we were in Key West.

Santiago’s Bodega was a big hit with us. Off the main drag, small plates, absolutely great food, and cold rosé: as good as it gets.

After all the years of hearing how great it is my reaction to Key West was … it’s OK. There’s pretty architecture. Some interesting history. A great climate; in April at least the weather was spectacular. Fun people watching. As with our experience in Savannah I love the fact that they’re not freaked out or prudes about alcohol. One night we stopped with a friend for a drink but didn’t really have enough time before our dinner reservation. No problem: the bartender just poured our drinks into plastic cups and off we went.

Mark made an interesting observation on our first day in Key West. He was walking up the main street at maybe 5 PM and it was incredibly lively with the bars full and people having loads of fun. “Wow,” he thought, “this is a lively town!” Maybe an hour later, though, he was walking back toward the hotel and it was vastly more subdued. The end of happy hour maybe? Nope – they had all been ashore from one of the two cruise boats in town and were now back onboard for dinner. In other words the evenings in Key West, in April at least, were a lot calmer than late afternoons.

Speaking of drinks, here’s something to love about being in the U.S.: diet sodas. I know, the artificial sweetener isn’t healthy. But then, neither is sugar. In the rest of the world you can’t get diet mixers, so a lot of mixed drinks are off-limits to us. There’s nowhere else in the world where I can get a gin & diet tonic, but that’s not hard in the U.S. And in Key West they even had diet ginger beer, meaning that we could have sugar-free Dark & Stormies. While walking down the street to dinner. I was in heaven!

Walking down the street finishing your drink? I like that. On the other hand, you can go too far with all that free and easy liberalism. Walking down Duval Street, the main street in Key West, there was a sign for a bar called Garden of Eden. And the Garden of Eden was described as a “clothing optional” bar. I just have to say, given what I saw walking down the streets of Key West clothing should most definitely NOT be optional.

The tropical climate is certainly a highlight here

How did we spend our time in Key West? We spent part of it with Jim Marzilli, an old friend from Boston who had moved to St. Petersburg but came down to visit for a couple days. It was good to catch up and share a few meals (and maybe a couple of drinks…).

Our old friend Jim Marzilli looking as though he belongs in Key West

There were two great sites for us to visit. First up was Harry Truman’s second White House, an old Navy station where he could use the base commander’s house and have both the freedom and security he needed; he spent nearly six months over the course of his seven-plus years as president there. Truman has a special place in my life: I paid for two years of college and one year of graduate school as a Truman Scholar. And then there was the whole Navy connection in the house, so I really enjoyed the tour.

Next up was the Ernest Hemingway House. Hemingway lived here, in the best house on the island for nine years. And while that wasn’t such a huge portion of his live the tour guide says that he wrote some two-thirds of his books here. I’ll admit: I’ve never been such a big fan of his novels. Maybe it’s just that I find him to be such a jerk, and I know I’m not supposed to say it, but I’m just not a fan. On the other hand his house was interesting on its own and then there were the cats. Dozens of them roaming around, most with six toes on at least one of their paws (polydactyl cats, as we learned). What’s not to like about a big beautiful house with dozens of cats?

You’re not allowed to pick the cats up but petting is permitted. So yes, there was a lot of petting going on.

I had expected that one of the main activities on Key West would be the beach, but no so much as it turns out. We spent a couple hours on Smathers Beach, half a mile long and supposedly the nicest public beach on the island. Obviously we’ve gotten spoiled but the beach itself wasn’t that nice. And the water was kind of dingy. And not that warm or deep.

So there you have it. Key West is a good place to drink, a fun place to admire the architecture, and a great place to enjoy summer weather when it’s not yet summer in the rest of the country. Next time we come to Florida though we’re stopping at Miami Beach. That’s heaven.

I spent part of one afternoon at the beach on my own and when I’m alone I head to the most remote spot I can find and make myself comfortable in the sand. This was nice but the tide was low and the water itself was kind of icky.

Key West architecture

Another shot

Hemingway’s kitchen. We’re hoping to do better in our next house.

An attractive fountain in Hemingway’s garden used to provide water to the cats. Somewhat less attractive, though, when we learned that the white basin is actually an old urinal from one of Hemingway’s favorite bars.

I wasn’t crazy about the beach but there were certainly some beautiful vistas in Key West

On our last night Mark’s old friend Mary Ryan from Tom Harkin world drove down from Fort Lauderdale for dinner with us. The big smiles suggest how much fun we had.

We love Miami Beach. There is just something about the colors, the sunlight, the beach, the people, the architecture, the Latin pulse – the whole thing. Mark says there’s no place on earth where he’s just happier. So after all that road trip from Duluth and all the visiting friends we settled in to a full week in Miami Beach.

And after a week there it’s possible I love it even more than I did when we arrived. We stayed at the Shore Club, once perhaps the hottest spot in South Beach. It’s where we spent our brief honeymoon in 2004 (while Mark was deep into the Kerry campaign) and we’ve been back several times since then. We weren’t inclined to stay there this time – the scene can be just too young for us – but it was priced much lower than other hotels. So we booked our week there.

The view from our hotel room. Nothing not to like here!

And then we learned why it was priced so much lower than other places. Over the years, the hotel has kind of gone to hell. It had the feeling of a hotel that the managers had quit taking care of because they figured they would sell it. Actually, that’s exactly what happened: there was a plan a year or so ago to do a serious renovation and connect it to high-end condos. That plan fell through due to a lack of financing, though, and for now then it’s still open as a hotel. A hotel that no longer has the sizzle it once did. And a hotel that now charges a mandatory “resort fee” for stuff that used to be included in the price of the room. Resort fees are just a way to hide the true cost of a hotel. They suck.

One day’s activity from my AppleWatch

After we got over the modest disappointment, though, we settled in pretty nicely. The pool is still nice, the beach is fabulous. It still has a great feel in the lobby and great views from our room. (They kindly moved us to a higher floor when we asked.)

What do you do in Miami Beach for a week? Normally you go for nice runs and walks, alternate between pool and beach, and explore the restaurant scene. We had an additional mission though: explore real estate. We’re starting to be pretty serious about finding a home again, someplace we would live maybe half the year while still exploring the world the other half, and Miami Beach is one of the finalists along with New York City and Paris.

We kind of randomly reached out to an agent who was listing one property that intrigued us and she set up two days of pretty intense house hunting. It turns out that she actually knew little about the South Beach market (OK, she didn’t know anything about it) but she still did a good job of setting up tours of maybe a dozen condos. It was all pretty exciting and there were moments when I could see myself making an offer then and there. We’re actually not ready to do that yet and of course it would be insanely stupid to be quite that spontaneous. The fantasy was attractive though.

Yeah, South Beach is beautiful

In the end living in Miami Beach is probably not likely. The climate is wonderful and there is a lot we love, but ultimately I think we would get bored living here. Late in the week we reached out to an old college friend of Mark’s who is a real estate agent here (Mark was initially reluctant to do so as doing business with friends can be a mistake) and he had great insights for us, suggesting that our ideal situation of finding a run down unit and designing our own space was definitely possible. Still, after a burst of excitement about living here, now we’re both skeptical. After stops in Key West and Boston we’re planning on spending two weeks in New York and we suspect we’re going to find that a lot more appealing than Miami Beach, more interesting.

And then our week was over. It’s a place we’ll always return to but for now it’s off to Key West.

The Shore Club pool isn’t quite the scene it once was but it’s pretty nice

The pool at night used to be a big party zone. No longer the case but still pretty.

The pool is still the site of an occasional fashion shoot

Why were hotel prices so high? Two of the biggest and best hotels on Collins Avenue – the Raleigh and the Ritz – were shut down, presumably the result of last year’s Hurricane Irma. This is – or was – the Ritz. I guess if you lose that many hotel rooms prices go up.

One day while eating lunch we started chatting with a local sitting at a nearby table. She turned out to be seriously annoying, maybe drunk, but before we lost interest she insisted we had to go over to Miami to see the public art in the Wynwood neighborhood. She repeatedly compared it to Soho in Manhattan. So I went there. Some of it was impressive, but it was no Soho. Not even close.

Another shot from Wynwood

We love the weather in Miami Beach. We love it in the heat of summer and we love it when storms move in. Especially if it gives you a double rainbow.

We discovered a Greek restaurant. The reviews were good but the feta cheese was bad. How can you have bad feta cheese in a Greek restaurant?

And Mark with a Perfect Manhattan toasting a nearly perfect city