Costa Rica

Hiking up toward three waterfalls at El Silencio Lodge. Based on our time there, there's enough water for a lot more waterfalls!

Hiking up toward three waterfalls at El Silencio Lodge. Based on our time there, there’s enough water for a lot more waterfalls!

Our meandering through Costa Rica continues as we head from the beaches of the Pacific to the cloud forests and rain forests of the central mountains. The diversity of tiny Costa Rica is pretty amazing.

These plants have a formal name, but they're called umbrella plants for perhaps obvious reasons. The leaves are enormous, probably the biggest I've ever seen, and they were all over the grounds at our lodge.

These plants have a formal name, but they’re called umbrella plants for perhaps obvious reasons. The leaves are enormous, probably the biggest I’ve ever seen, and they were all over the grounds at our lodge.

From the beach town of Tamarindo we flew to San Jose, the capital, to get a car for the rest of our journey. Of course, we hate cars, but we want to go to some relatively out-of-the-way places so we figured we’d give it another shot. So far, the jury is out on whether the convenience is worth the hassle. The freedom is good, but cars are just a pain. In this case, the pain included a flat tire discovered while we were at a lodge in the mountains. But we can’t complain too much. The staff at our lodge discovered the problem and then suggested they just take the tire into town and get it fixed for us. Bill from the garage? Something under $4.00. So OK, not that much pain. So far.

Our first stop was a cloud forest lodge near Bajos del Toro, a tiny town high in the mountains of central Costa Rica. When we left San Jose it was sunny and in the low 80s; 90 minutes later it was rainy and in the upper 50s. “Well,” I thought, “it’ll probably clear up at some point.”

The 17 villas that make up El Silencio Lodge, taken from one of our little hikes into the hills above

The 17 villas that make up El Silencio Lodge, taken from one of our little hikes into the hills above

Wrong. Apparently all that beautiful green scenery we saw as we were driving into the mountains requires vast amounts of rain to stay, well, green. Vast amounts. To be sure, the weather varied during our stay. Sometimes it rained a lot and sometimes it merely misted heavily. On rare occasions there was no precipitation at all, but that would last for only a few minutes. Then something would start again.

Horseback riding through lush green hills. Sadly, the very uncool helmets were required.

Horseback riding through lush green hills. Sadly, the very uncool helmets were required.

Still, we had a great time. El Silencio Lodge, where we were staying, is really beautiful and – as the flat tire experience suggests – provides pretty great service. (You want good service? While we were at dinner, they provided turn-down service in the room. And since the nights are pretty cool up there, the turn-down service includes putting hot-water bottles under your sheets. Now that’s service.) The food was outstanding; the local rivers are apparently full of trout that looked and tasted more like salmon, while most of the produce came from their own organic garden. In other words, all very local and very fresh. We went horseback riding one morning and hiked to three pretty impressive waterfalls another morning. The afternoons were about sleeping, reading, and enjoying the private hot tub that came with the room.

All in all, beautiful and relaxing. And wet and muddy, but beautiful and relaxing.

Mark, along the river that led to the waterfalls

Mark, along the river that led to the waterfalls

Mark & our guide Carlos. Even he had to wear a helmet, though I suspect he was in little danger of falling off.

Mark & our guide Carlos. Even he had to wear a helmet, though I suspect he was in little danger of falling off.

The second of our three waterfalls

The second of our three waterfalls

This was the third and by far biggest of the three waterfalls, all within an hour's hike of our lodge

This was the third and by far biggest of the three waterfalls, all within an hour’s hike of our lodge

The view of Playa Negra from Chris's "shack." It was another perfect day on the beach, in the pool, and around the card table!

The view of Playa Negra from Chris’s “shack.” It was another perfect day on the beach, in the pool, and around the card table!

As Mark noted in his Thanksgiving blog post, we’re in Tamarindo, a surfer town on the Pacific coast. The specific impetus for coming here was to join our old neighbors and Cambridge friends for Thanksgiving at a beach maybe 30 minutes south of here, but we also had time to spend in the town.

We stayed at a lovely little boutique hotel on a dirt road just a block off the beach; easy to get anywhere in town but enough of a separation from all the hubbub and surfer craziness. Interestingly, we spent a good deal of the time planning our next stops. It’s surprisingly complicated trying to figure out where to go, where to stay, what’s available, what TripAdvisor reviews have to offer and so on.

Lunch on the beach in Tamarindo. It's surprising how little time we spent actually on the beach there, but lunch with a view like this can't be bad.

Lunch on the beach in Tamarindo. It’s surprising how little time we spent actually on the beach there, but lunch with a view like this can’t be bad.

And then, the day after Thanksgiving we got an email from friends saying they were coming to this very same area in mid-December. Would we still be around? So we rearranged things a bit and then went and found a two-bedroom villa we could rent for the week they’re here; thus the “Part I” in the title. We’re coming back in 10 days for some more beach time!

Besides our time hanging around Tamarindo and doing travel planning we spent one more day down at Playa Negra with the Cambridge crowd. We had so much fun it makes you wonder why we left Cambridge in the first place. (OK, that’s an exageration…)

Chris's pool overlooking Playa Negra. Not a bad place to hang out.

Chris’s pool overlooking Playa Negra. Not a bad place to hang out.

Meanwhile, we’re off to the cloud forests in the middle of the country which should be quite the change.

We've found that the most efficient way to hop around the country is on these tiny planes that stop in small towns. This is the airport lounge in Tamarindo. Looks cozy, huh?

We’ve found that the most efficient way to hop around the country is on these tiny planes that stop in small towns. This is the airport lounge in Tamarindo. Looks cozy, huh?

Suzanne, Jim, Ann, and Bart at Thanksgiving dinner

Suzanne, Jim, Ann, and Bart at Thanksgiving dinner

We are now settled in the lively surfer town of Tamarindo on Costa Rica’s Nicoya peninsula. But yesterday we took a little journey out of town to Playa Negra to spend a very special Thanksgiving with old friends from Cambridge.

Our old neighbor Chris and his girlfriend Suzanne have a beautiful house in a stunning spot just above the beach. Our great friends Bart and Ann and Wil are down for the week. And so were Chris’s sister Susan and her husband Rick, who might rival us as political junkies.

We had a really fun day of conversation, game playing, wave hopping, political analysis, and of course turkey and all the most traditional trimmings.

Wil, Bart, and Ann in the frantic final moments

Wil, Bart, and Ann in the frantic final moments

Chris and Ann present a masterpiece

Chris and Ann present a masterpiece

Every time we see Susan and Rick we enjoy a spirited analysis of political trends

Every time we see Susan and Rick we enjoy a spirited analysis of political trends

The view of the gardens and beach from the patio

The view of the gardens and beach from the patio

Jim chilling before dinner

Jim chilling before dinner

Bart takes a pool break between beach and dinner

Bart takes a pool break between beach and dinner

Ann expresses her concerns about how the Hearts game turned out

Ann expresses her concerns about how the Hearts game turned out