Greece

The walk from Nafplion to Arvanitia Beach. That structure slinking up the mountain is Palamidi Fortress, which the rest of them were climbing while I was paddling in the azure waters. Smart choice on my part, huh?

The walk from Nafplion to Arvanitia Beach. That structure slinking up the mountain is Palamidi Fortress, which the rest of them were climbing while I was paddling in the azure waters. Smart choice on my part, huh?

From Delphi we drove south to Nafplion, what will be our only stop on the Peloponnese Peninsula. Nafplion has been a major Aegean port since the Bronze Age and was occupied by the Venetians and Ottomans each for a few hundred years. More recently it was the original capital of Greece during and immediately after the war of independence (from the Ottoman empire) in the 1830s. Today, with its elegant Venetian mansions, narrow streets, cute cafés, sidewalk restaurants, and of course that incomparable Mediterranean Sea, it’s a tourist mecca.

Dan, photographing the Lion Gate at Mycenae, the main entrance to the citadel. It dates from the 16th century BC and is the only monumental Mycenaean sculpture still in existence. Amazingly, it appears to have stood there over the millennia, unlike most ancient ruins that had collapsed and only in recent times been rebuilt.

Dan, photographing the Lion Gate at Mycenae, the main entrance to the citadel. It dates from the 16th century BC and is the only monumental Mycenaean sculpture still in existence. Amazingly, it appears to have stood there over the millennia, unlike most ancient ruins that had collapsed and only in recent times been rebuilt.

While enjoying the modern joys of Nafplion, you’re never far from history of course, this being Greece and all. A key adventure, then, was do drive north to Mycenae, home to the ancient Mycenaeans who were the most powerful Greeks during much of the second millennium BC; the period of Greek history from about 1600 BC to 1100 BC, in fact, is known as the Mycenaean era. And to put it in its Homeric context, Agamemnon, the leader of Greek forces in the Trojan War, was king of Mycenae when he took to the seas to rescue Helen, whom Paris of Troy had abducted. (You can read the Iliad for more details.) While I stayed home to deal with some health insurance issues Mark & the many Germains made the day trip.

Laura, Elizabeth, and Charlie signal the 1,000th step on the way up the Palamidi Fortress

Laura, Elizabeth, and Charlie signal the 1,000th step on the way up the Palamidi Fortress

Dan & Laura, having successfully climbed the fortress

Dan & Laura, having successfully climbed the fortress

Another little jaunt worth doing in Nafplion is to climb the Palamidi Fortress, built by the Venetians on a huge outcrop in the early 18th century, during their second occupation. Once again I let Mark and the Germains do the heavy lifting; I’d been up there three years earlier when Mark & I had passed through Nafplion and had the sense that I would use my time more effectively lying on a beach somewhere. Turns out I was right. There’s just no way you can describe the perfection of a swim in the Mediterranean in July. So after I raved about how fabulous it was, we all went back the next day, after their Mycenaean sojourn, for an afternoon at the beach. Heaven.

Nafplion was a short stop for us – two nights and then back to the Athens airport for a flight to Crete. As the site of our first Mediterranean swim, though, it was a nice little detour. Now on to see why those Cretans have such a bad reputation.

The morning view of the Bourtzi fortress from our hotel, another fortification built by the Venetians

The morning view of the Bourtzi fortress from our hotel, another fortification built by the Venetians

Elizabeth & Charlie atop the Palamidi Fortress

Elizabeth & Charlie atop the Palamidi Fortress

Sunset in front of our hotel

Sunset in front of our hotel

Charlie, demonstrating that adolescents can occasionally be engaging, fun people

Charlie, demonstrating that adolescents can occasionally be engaging, fun people

OK, this was from our trip to Greece in 2012, but I wanted photographic evidence that I was once atop the Palamidi Fortress, too

OK, this was from our trip to Greece in 2012, but I wanted photographic evidence that I was once atop the Palamidi Fortress, too

And while I'm posting old pictures, Mark was showing us some pictures from his 1984 trip to Europe when Dan noticed that this was the back of Lion's Gate. You see, Mark didn't know he'd been to Mycenae previously; it was only when faced with photographic evidence that he concluded he apparently had been there 31 years earlier.

And while I’m posting old pictures, Mark was showing us some pictures from his 1984 trip to Europe when Dan noticed that this was the back of Lion’s Gate. You see, Mark didn’t know he’d been to Mycenae previously; it was only when faced with photographic evidence that he concluded he apparently had been there 31 years earlier.

In the brutal afternoon heat while touring the temple of Apollo, I found a tall, thin Cypress tree offering shade. Soon the Germain family was lined up behind me, all enjoying the comparative coolness offered by the tree. So now I introduce, from front to back, the Germains - Laura, Elizabeth, Dan, and Charlie.

In the brutal afternoon heat while touring the temple of Apollo, I found a tall, thin Cypress tree offering shade. Soon the Germain family was lined up behind me, all enjoying the comparative coolness offered by the tree. So now I introduce, from front to back, the Germains – Laura, Elizabeth, Dan, and Charlie.

Nearly a year ago Mark & I were visiting friends in Chicago. While waiting to see an old colleague at his job in Greek Town, we went to lunch, sat down in a Greek restaurant, and said “We should go to Greece next summer.” Not long after we were visiting with our friends Dan & Laura who were talking about taking a 2015 summer trip with their kids Charlie & Elizabeth to see Rome. “No,” we insisted, “Come to Greece with us instead.”

Yeah, there'll be lots of stories of history and art and myths and Gods and all that. Meanwhile, here's what we really came to Greece for: our first Greek salad.

Yeah, there’ll be lots of stories of history and art and myths and Gods and all that. Meanwhile, here’s what we really came to Greece for: our first Greek salad.

Here it is now, summer of 2015, and the six of us are in Greece for two weeks. Due to the challenges of traveling at high season with six people, these two weeks are more far planned than most two-week periods in the last two years. Two days in Delphi, two in Nafplion, four in Crete, three in Santorini, and three in Athens. We’re starting our Greek adventure on the slopes of Mount Parnassus in hot, dusty, dry Delphi.

For centuries, Delphi was the religious and spiritual center of the ancient Greek world. Though Greece then consisted of a large number of independent city-states, often highly competitive or even at war with each other, Apollo’s sanctuary here was considered sacred and thus protected by and accessible to all Greeks. It was, in fact, considered the center of the universe, the omphalos or navel of the world. Every four years the site also hosted the Pythian games, second only to the contests at Olympus in terms of prestige. Unlike the Olympian games, though, the Pythian games also included the mousikos agon or musical contests as well.

The remaining pieces of Apollo's Temple, with a spectacular view over the Phocis Valley.

The remaining pieces of Apollo’s Temple, with a spectacular view over the Phocis Valley.

Of central importance to the sanctuary of Apollo here was the Oracle of Delphi, a priestess who offered prophecies based on her communication with Apollo. Selected at the death of a current priestess, she was available to answer questions from as relatively trivial as to if or when a couple should marry to whether a Greek state should go to war. It was said that the Oracle would go into a trance – thought by many, including the historian Plutarch, to have been caused by vapors escaping through the center of the universe. Her answers were often notoriously ambiguous.

The stadium, where the Pythian games took place. The seating was added by Emperor Hadrian - a noted Hellenophile - in the first century AD; before then, fans just stood or sat on the ground.

The stadium, where the Pythian games took place. The seating was added by Emperor Hadrian – a noted Hellenophile – in the first century AD; before then, fans just stood or sat on the ground.

Today, the stadium is roped off; you can see it but you can't go into it. When Mark was here in 1984, though, it was wide open and so some of the girls he was traveling with sponsored their own version of the Pythian games. He had all the fun!

Today, the stadium is roped off; you can see it but you can’t go into it. When Mark was here in 1984, though, it was wide open and so some of the girls he was traveling with sponsored their own version of the Pythian games. He had all the fun!

My favorite story about the Oracle of Delphi is from the legendary Croesus, king of the Ionian state of Lydia and thought by the Greeks at least to be the world’s richest man. He was preparing to attack the far more powerful kingdom of Persia and went to the Oracle to ask for advice. She responded that if he attacked the Persians he would destroy a great kingdom. Of course, he forgot to ask which kingdom would be destroyed and lost everything when Cyrus the Great of Persia wiped out his army.

Delphi was a great start to the Greek expedition, a nice little jolt of ancient history in a cute town with fantastic views over the valley and classic Greek food. Next we move south for a couple days on the Peloponnese Peninsula.

The grand amphitheater, looking over the temple of Apollo and the whole valley. This is where the musical competitions during the Pythian games took place.

The grand amphitheater, looking over the temple of Apollo and the whole valley. This is where the musical competitions during the Pythian games took place.

And here are Mark & Laura testing the acoustics at the theater, lustily belting out Mama Mia!

And here are Mark & Laura testing the acoustics at the theater, lustily belting out Mama Mia!

Adjacent to the ruins is a pretty good museum with lots of old stuff. This is a statue of Antinuos, a youth of "extraordinary beauty" who was 2nd century AD Roman Emperor Hadrian's beloved companion or, as we would call him today, the Emperor's boy toy. When he drowned in the Nile river - thought by some to be at Hadrian's order as a human sacrifice - Hadrian ordered statues of him to be erected across the empire and had him deified in the east where that was considered acceptable. This statue, found in remarkably good condition here at Delphi, is one of the most complete.

Adjacent to the ruins is a pretty good museum with lots of old stuff. This is a statue of Antinuos, a youth of “extraordinary beauty” who was 2nd century AD Roman Emperor Hadrian’s beloved companion or, as we would call him today, the Emperor’s boy toy. When he drowned in the Nile river – thought by some to be at Hadrian’s order as a human sacrifice – Hadrian ordered statues of him to be erected across the empire and had him deified in the east where that was considered acceptable. This statue, found in remarkably good condition here at Delphi, is one of the most complete.

On the road to Delphi and just a half-mile or so below the temple of Apollo stands this temple to Athena, the first temple in the area encountered by pilgrims coming up from Athens

On the road to Delphi and just a half-mile or so below the temple of Apollo stands this temple to Athena, the first temple in the area encountered by pilgrims coming up from Athens

Happy Elizabeth & Laura

Happy Elizabeth & Laura

And happy Mark, with a kitty at the temple of Athena

And happy Mark, with a kitty at the temple of Athena