Another two-night stop, another lovely French city. In this case we stopped in Nantes, the sixth-largest city in France. (For what it’s worth, when this trip is over we will have been in all ten of the largest cities in the country.) A fun part of the stop was our residence, the Hotel Sozo. The hotel took over an abandoned chapel some years ago and turned it into a hotel, keeping as much of the historic architecture and even stained glass windows as they could. Our room was tiny, but it oozed personality.

Another highlight was the fact that just outside our hotel was the city’s oldest and probably most beautiful park, the Jardin des Plantes. Created in 1807, it was a delight to walk through the park as we went out to explore the city.

And there was plenty to explore in our quick stop. Sadly, there were two challenges in really experiencing Nantes. First, the cathedral looked impressive but was closed for what seemed to be pretty substantial renovations. And second, lots of restaurants are closed in Nantes both Saturday and Sunday evenings, the two nights we were there, Sunday in particular. And on Sunday pretty much everything is closed except for touristy cafes, so the city center felt like more like a ghost town than we would have liked.

Still, there was plenty to keep us engaged. There was an art museum that I really liked. In many ways I am simple: I like an art museum that takes me through whatever period it covers logically and systematically. I particularly like museums that take you with clear signage from one room to the next. The Nantes museum, covering art from the 14th to the 20th centuries, checked all those boxes and had a surprisingly good collection of modern art.

Similarly, the old Ducal Palace had a museum of the history of Nantes that was pretty good. It could have used more English translations, but I’m not complaining too much. In particular, they did not shy away from acknowledging the city’s role in the French slave trade. Because of its position at the mouth of the Loire River, Nantes was responsible for just about half of that shameful history and they covered it extensively.

There is one other important piece of history from Nantes. In 1598 Henry IV signed the Edict of Nantes in the Ducal Palace here. Henry – who was born protestant but, famously considering the crown of France worthy of a mass, converted to Catholicism – upheld Catholicism as the established religion of the state but at the same time gave French Protestants significant political rights. The result was the end of the 35-year French Wars of Religion.

Finally, one more thing I learned in the museum. Mark and I were both a little confused over the fact that this was once the seat of the Dukes of Brittany but is no longer in the official French region of Brittany. What gives? Well, according to one exhibit in the museum, the collaborationist Vichy government in 1941 restructured things and put Nantes in what was then the Angers region. Today it is the capital of the Pays de la Loire region, one of 18 regions in the country, and it is still pretty controversial that it is not part of Brittany region. We’ll let them fight it out.

For us though, our memory of Nantes will be highlighted by one thing. On our last evening we were walking to dinner when I got a text from my brother Al: “Biden dropped out”. Yikes! Ever since that fateful and awful debate we’d been waiting for this. And in fact while we were walking on that Sunday evening I was getting genuinely angry at Biden for clinging to power so desperately. And then in the flash of a text it was as though a new era had opened: once again, we have a fighting chance to win in November. Makes for a pretty eventful stop in Nantes!

A funny thing happened when we arrived in Rennes. It became summer! Rennes is the capital of Brittany, and unlike everyplace else we’ve been in the region, it’s inland. That means goodbye to rocky coastlines, moody weather, and screeching seagulls. And hello to warm sunny weather for the first time. We really enjoyed the cool weather the last three weeks, but it’s nice to feel some sunshine again.

Rennes has a nice blend of the things we love about cities all over France — grand monumental architecture in the civic center, a medieval quarter of crooked wooden buildings, a grand cathedral, lively stretches of outdoor restaurants and cafes. The place had a very nice feel for a couple of days.

The best part of our arrival was ditching the car. And now we’ll be traveling by public transportation again, probably for about a month. From here we’ll take trains south, roughly along the Western coast of France. Next stop: Nantes.

Next up on our exploration of Brittany was Quiberon, a seaside resort on a peninsula sticking down into the Bay of Biscay some 125 miles south of Roscoff. We stayed at a Sofitel overlooking the sea, a little over a mile south of the little town. In the 19th century the town was a center of sardine fishing and packing, but when first a railroad connected it to the rest of France in the late 19th century and then it was classified as a health resort in 1924, tourism took off. Today the town lives and breathes off of tourism, primarily, they say, French tourists.

We spent three nights here and initially I was skeptical about the whole “seaside resort” thing. I mean, the temperature never got above 65 degrees and it’s the middle of July! But then I got into the vibe a little and I started to understand. And on our last day, with the sun out and the temperature soaring into the mid-60s I spent a couple hours at the beach and loved it. By late afternoon the beach was getting crowded and lots of people were out swimming notwithstanding the fact that water was seriously cold.

A highlight of our little adventure here was that we rented bikes from the hotel and could quickly (and for Mark importantly, painlessly) get into town for meals or out to the beaches. And the great thing is that because it stays light so late we could bike to dinner at 8:00 or even 8:30, have a great meal, and bike home while it was still daylight.

A little beach time, some reading, some exercise, and a lot of food. On our first lunch we discovered a small … network? chain? family? … of local restaurants. The lunch was so good we ended up visiting two of the other places in their network and they were all really good; the owners have something figured out. And service? At lunch Mark accidentally dropped his wedding ring and it fell through a small crack into an inaccessible crawl space. So the owner called a handyman of some sort who, after we left, pulled up enough of the boards on the patio where we were sitting to recover the ring. That’s service!