France

Inside the Cathedral of Saint-André, where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France in 1137

Inside the Cathedral of Saint-André, where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Louis VII of France in 1137

Some of the imposing neo-classical architecture

Some of the imposing neo-classical architecture

We decided to spend almost a week in Bordeaux, and so far the place is living up to my high expectations. Bordeaux combines so much of what we love about European cities — monumental architecture, great city planning, and lots of urban energy.

Horsing around

Horsing around

The city wraps around a smooth curve of the Garonne river and it is really loaded up with 19th century neo-classical architecture. Huge swaths of the city center have been pedestrianized, and the urban core has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The streets are teeming with public art, street performances, and people enjoying it all.

The Garonne is lined with both architectural wonders and stunning parklands

The Garonne is lined with both architectural wonders and stunning parklands

Yesterday we took a train to the seaside town of Arcachon, where we rented bikes and rode out to a sand dune called the Dune de Pilat. Even knowing that this was the largest sand dune in Europe, I wasn’t really expecting all that much. I mean, what’s the big deal about a hill of sand between the beach and the shore? You see that in lots of beach areas.

But once we get there it was pretty incredible — a truly massive pile of sand with a life of its own. It apparently moves several meters a year, slowly swallowing up the forest inland. It’s already taken out some roads and buildings as well, including a hotel. After an arduous climb to the top we were rewarded with incredible views — and our first glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean since we left Boston!

Lots of cool public art

Lots of cool public art

Today we are embarking on another day trip out of town to encounter some of what Bordeaux is really known for — wine. I’m intrigued whether an all-day visit to wine country here will enhance my relationship to Bordeaux wines, which I have never really understood. This region produces the most celebrated and expensive wines in the world, yet I have rarely (including in the last three days here) tasted a Bordeaux wine that did not taste to me like licking a Band-Aid.

Like the rest of the city, our hotel is a really buzzing spot, including a lively bar where they make great drinks

Like the rest of the city, our hotel is a really buzzing spot, including a lively bar where they make great drinks

Making the long trudge up the massive Dune de Pilat

Making the long trudge up the massive Dune de Pilat

The dune sits between the Atlantic and the forest it keeps taking over

The dune sits between the Atlantic and the forest it keeps taking over

Rewarded with great views of the Atlantic ocean

Rewarded with great views of the Atlantic ocean

The long walk from the train station to the medieval walled city culminated in a steep climb. If we'd really anticipated the steepness, the heat, and the rough gravelly surface we'd have taken a taxi.

The long walk from the train station to the medieval walled city culminated in a steep climb. If we’d really anticipated the steepness, the heat, and the rough gravelly surface we’d have taken a taxi.

With two weeks left before we catch a flight from Paris to visit family and friends in the US, we left Barcelona to make a pass through Southwestern France. Our first stop was the spectacular medieval fortress town of Carcassonne. I’ve wanted to see Carcassonne since hearing my parents rave about it years ago.

This was just a two-night stay, and we spent a great deal of our time here doing some necessary travel planning. But we were also pretty immersed in the medieval ‘feel’ of the place since we stayed in a gorgeous hotel inside the walls of the hilltop fortress known as La Cité. Not only was the hotel itself fantastic, but they upgraded us to one of their best suites. With beautiful views of the castle and the ramparts of Carcassonne, our elegant living room made an ideal place to do our work and soak up the atmosphere. Next stop: Bordeaux.

The view from our living room

The view from our living room

Rose window in the medieval Basilique Saint-Nazaire, just steps from our front door

Rose window in the medieval Basilique Saint-Nazaire, just steps from our front door

Our breakfast courtyard

Our breakfast courtyard

This festive Montpellier square was the scene of a great dinner last night

This festive Montpellier square was the scene of a great dinner last night

We spent a pleasant afternoon in the Jardin des Plantes

We spent a pleasant afternoon in the Jardin des Plantes

Whenever possible we like to break long journeys into smaller pieces. Rather than spending eight hours on a train we prefer to stop in the middle. Two four hour journeys aren’t nearly so bad, especially if you get to discover a new place in between. Since we had a couple days to spare between our stay in Cannes and our visit with my brother John and his family in Barcelona, we decided to make a stop smack in the middle. And that brings us to Montpellier, the vibrant capital of the French region of Languedoc-Roussillon.

These things looked an awful lot like blueberries but maybe not quite

These things looked an awful lot like blueberries but maybe not quite

Montpellier feels like a young town, with lively streets and bustling squares full of bars and restaurants. It’s been a college town since the founding of the University of Montpellier in 1160 — one of the oldest universities in the world. It is also reported to be the fastest growing city in France over the past quarter century.

It’s been a nice place to hang out for a brief couple of days while we got a few practical things done — shopping for toiletries, getting Jim a haircut, and doing a bit of travel research. We also visited a nice botanical garden, the Jardin des Plantes, and enjoyed a couple great meals in those lively Montpellier squares.

But this morning we are more excited than usual to board our next train. Because this time we are headed to one of our favorite places on earth — Barcelona!

This kitty was waiting for me right at the entrance to the Jardin des Plants

This kitty was waiting for me right at the entrance to the Jardin des Plants

This kitty was looming just behind Jim at lunch in another great square.

This kitty was looming just behind Jim at lunch in another great square.

Jim inspects some nice purple flowers at the Jardin

Jim inspects some nice purple flowers at the Jardin

A decommissioned church rise up into a moody sky

A decommissioned church rise up into a moody sky