Thailand

We were supposed to fall in love with Koh Samui, one of the biggest and most beautiful islands in the Gulf of Thailand. Backpackers “discovered” the island back in the 1970s and since then tourism has become the mainstay of the island’s economy. It’s easy to understand why: the water can be spectacularly blue and the beaches are long and white. There are accommodations to meet any need – you can stay in a backpacker hostel or spend $1,000 a night on an entry-level room at the Four Seasons Samui.

To be sure, we had a great four days here. Our resort is beautiful, with some great outdoor spaces to lounge in. Fortunately some of the outdoor area is protected by roofs, as the weather was pretty uncooperative, with rain and clouds over the last two days. Today we’re leaving (we actually wanted to stay one more day, but the hotel is full today) so of course it’s beautiful again.

We keep having to learn that one of the keys to a great hotel is location, location. This resort is beautiful, but away from most everything. So we rented scooters to get to the beach and around the island, which was entertaining in its own way. Ultimately, though, I never felt as though I really got to know Samui; I just always felt like an outsider in the various places we went to. Location, location, location.

From here we move down to Krabi for a few days on the beach on the Andaman Sea, the west coast of the peninsula, and then we hop down to Singapore. And now we’re rethinking the plans to go to Korea and Japan in the spring; we may end up in Indonesia after all. Stay tuned…

At any rate, here’s what we saw in Koh Samui.

Fortunately we got some sun the first day we were on the island. This is lunch and I was pretty happy.

Fortunately we got some sun the first day we were on the island. This is lunch and I was pretty happy.

The pool and sea at our resort, but there was no actual beach here.

The pool and sea at our resort, but there was no actual beach here.

Just steps from our hotel, where they charged $15 for a glass of wine (seriously) was the local five-table restaurant, Stop@SOPA. Once we discovered it we ate here the last three nights. Great food, great prices, fun place, though you have to be something of a tech geek to appreciate the humor of the logo.

Just outside our hotel, where they charged $15 for a glass of wine (seriously) was the local five-table restaurant, Stop@SOPA. Once we discovered it we ate here the last three nights. Great food, great prices, fun place, though you have to be something of a tech geek to appreciate the humor of the logo.

The cook in her kitchen. They greeted us almost like family by the third night.

The cook in her kitchen. They greeted us almost like family by the third night.

Chaweng Beach is the main beach on the island. Big and beautiful but unfortunately not beach weather this day.

Chaweng Beach is the main beach on the island. Big and beautiful but unfortunately not beach weather this day.

Chaweng Beach, though as you might be able to tell from the picture not exactly beach weather.

Chaweng Beach, though as you might be able to tell from the picture not exactly beach weather.

Fisherman's Village was on the other side of the island from Chaweng Beach, so we'd hop on our scooters to go there for lunch. Apparently it used to be an actual fisherman's village, but now it's full of shops great little restaurants.

Fisherman’s Village was on the other side of the island from Chaweng Beach, so we’d hop on our scooters to go there for lunch. Apparently it used to be an actual fisherman’s village, but now it’s full of shops great little restaurants.

Mark had an array of cute kitties to play with on Samui. This one was appearing in Phantom of the Opera...

Mark had an array of cute kitties to play with on Samui. This one was appearing in Phantom of the Opera…

John Denver seemed to have thought West Virginia was almost heaven, but I have to think he’d never been to islands in the Gulf of Thailand. We’ve been on Koh Tao, just a little island north of the bigger and allegedly more fabulous Koh Samui, for four days now. We were originally scheduled to leave today, but we’re staying two more days before taking a boat on to Samui.

Happy Mark

Happy Mark

It’s really a simple recipe: an early morning run, breakfast, at the pool with a book by 8:30 or 9:00, off to lunch at a beach restaurant, late afternoon on the beach. Mark goes off to a massage – at $8 to $10 for an hour, it’s not a big splurge – then it’s a stop for a drink before dinner. Rinse and repeat. Food, beach, books – really a good life. I finished a biography of Douglas MacArthur (freak!) a couple days ago and today finished And the Mountains Echoed, a fabulous novel about Afghanis from a fictional village. Really amazing. One of my goals in traveling was to read more fiction, and so far it’s working!

It gets easy to understand how the older, skanky guys get stuck here – and a little scary to think how easy it could be to end up to become one of those guys who’ve been here too many years. I think we’re going to resist the temptation though, moving on to Koh Samui for a few days and then on to a beach near Krabi before flying to Singapore to meet up with Mark’s brother and father.

Here are some pictures of life on the island.

On the boat from the mainland to Koh Tao

On the boat from the mainland to Koh Tao

The lunch view on day two on the island. We don't really miss the winter...

The lunch view on day two on the island. We don’t really miss the winter…

View from lunch on our third day on the island. This has become pretty much our new standard.

View from lunch on our third day on the island. This has become pretty much our new standard.

Mark playing fetch with a dog that just didn't get it. The dog really wanted to play - we'd watched him walking up and down the beach trying to get people to play with him - so Mark found a stick and threw it. The dog just looked as if to say "YOU go get it." So Mark got it and tried it again...

Mark playing fetch with a dog that just didn’t get it. The dog really wanted to play – we’d watched him walking up and down the beach trying to get people to play with him – so Mark found a stick and threw it. The dog just looked as if to say “YOU go get it.” So Mark got it and tried it again…

Mark's still trying to explain to the dog how this "fetch" thing works...

Mark’s still trying to explain to the dog how this “fetch” thing works…

Finally, Mark just gives up and gets the stick himself. That was the end of fetch, and the dog appears to be too embarrassed to come back - we haven't seen him on the beach since that day.

Finally, Mark just gives up and gets the stick himself. That was the end of fetch, and the dog appears to be too embarrassed to come back – we haven’t seen him on the beach since that day.

Thai food is spectacular and we're really enjoying that part of our experience here. This was dinner last night, a great big seafood extravaganza. It was as good as it looks!

Thai food is spectacular and we’re really enjoying that part of our experience here. This was dinner last night, a great big seafood extravaganza. It was as good as it looks!

Our happy bartenders at Simple Life. They make a great Johnny Walker on the rocks!

Our happy bartenders at Simple Life. They make a great Johnny Walker on the rocks!

Koh Tao is a small island, but big enough for a nightly drag show. The funny thing is that women on the island don't actually wear hats like this very much.

Koh Tao is a small island, but big enough for a nightly drag show. The funny thing is that women on the island don’t actually wear hats like this very much.

What we're looking at for most of January --  at our current stop in Bang Saphan, Thailand.

What we’re looking at for most of January — at our current stop in Bang Saphan, Thailand.

After all the excitement of our two-week holiday bicycle tour of Myanmar, we’ve slowed the pace way down. Biking in Myanmar was exhilarating, exotic, and truly memorable. But after two weeks of hard work, group meals, fun conversation, and moving around a lot we were ready to take it back down a notch.

And what better way to do that than to spend most of January beach hopping in Thailand? So just after the New Year we flew back to Bangkok and began a Southward odyssey of beach stops along the Thai peninsula.

Last week we got the exciting news that my dad and my brother John will meet us in Singapore on January 29 for a couple weeks of travel together, probably in Malaysia. So we shopped around and found a couple cheap flights to Singapore from Krabi, Thailand, and decided to fill out he rest of January with more Thai beach stops. That means a few more weeks of long, uneventful days, warm blue ocean, amazing Thai food, and plentiful cheap massage. That kind of January beats the icy mess back home!

The view from our last stop in Pran Buri, Thailand

The view from our last stop in Pran Buri, Thailand

And on rare occasions one can find a good cocktail -- here in Hua Hin, Thailand.

And on rare occasions one can find a good cocktail — here in Hua Hin, Thailand.