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Celebrating the incredible restoration of Notre Dame

As we were planning our trip to London, Jim suggested we should also go to Paris. We have been there many times, but never in winter. Plus we could take the train through the Chunnel, another first. So we added five nights in Paris onto our London itinerary. How bad could that be?

It sure helps if the February temperatures are in the 40s and 50s most of the time. And the crowds are a bit thinner than usual. And unlike our stay in London, we had virtually no people to see or engagements planned. I did, however, do a fair amount of restaurant research in advance, cuz, you know, you never want even a mediocre dining experience in this incredible food city.

We also enjoyed a splurgy stay at the great classic hotel Ritz on the Place Vendôme. Cesar Ritz opened this palatial hotel in 1898 to provide lodging suitable for royalty. It was the first hotel ever to include such luxuries as bathrooms, electricity, and telephones in every room. An extensive renovation from 2012 to 2016 restored it to its original glory.

Of course the highlight of this visit was a chance to once again tour Notre Dame, which was miraculously reopened less than six years after the devastating fire. I was astounded by the breadth of the restoration. It seemed like every tiny corner of this vast cathedral glittered like new, thanks to the armies of craftsmen in every field.

The interior of Notre Dame seemed almost shockingly “white” and bright. You are just not used to seeing medieval cathedrals without a layer of smoky grime on the walls.

Miraculously, the stained glass sustained minimal damage, so they sparkle as much as ever

Every side chapel seemed restored to perfection

A view through some grillwork across the altar

Cocktails at Bar Vendome at the hotel Ritz

The Place Vendôme

Paris is beautiful even in winter

More winter beauty

Weather was pleasant enough for an outdoor cafe stop on th Place des Vosges

I spend a lot of time researching on line to find restaurants that we might love. When we arrived at Parcelles, I immediately recognized it as a place my research led us to three years earlier!

Crocuses in the Tuileries! Spring is coming!

And yet these people haven’t taken down their Christmas decorations yet

The Luxembourg Garden is not as glorious in the winter, but still pretty amazing

A gorgeous sunrise on the Seine

Heading to dinner in the wonderful 7th arrondissement you get lots of great Eiffel Tower views

We went to hear Tchaikovsky’s Fifth Symphony at the church of Saint-Philippe-du-Roule. The setting was beautiful, and the music was impressive, despite some pretty terrible acoustics.

Fancy dead people at the Père Lachaise cemetery

A fun lunch at Tour d’Argent, a restaurant that claims to have opened in 1582

Irresistible temptations at breakfast at the Ritz

What a view from our room!

Our stunning beach, Anse des Flamands

Our French Caribbean adventure continued in the neighboring island of Saint Barth. This whole trip was really planned around our desire to stay at a hotel here called Cheval Blanc. We’ve stayed at two Cheval Blanc hotels previously — in Paris and in Saint-Tropez — and they are extraordinary places.

Our resort was connected by boardwalks through jungle

We had one dinner at a beautiful restaurant in a dazzling jungle setting

The Cheval Blanc hotels are owned by the French luxury brand juggernaut, LVMH. This is a splurgy place on a gorgeous beach called Anse des Flamands. It is staffed by armies of young, beautiful people, almost exclusively from France.

Saint Barth is a stunningly beautiful island. It’s also known as a playground for very wealthy people, which has its advantages and disadvantages. On the plus side that means there are some really nice resorts — and an endless supply of high quality restaurants to choose from. We ate very well here, but we actually tire easily of overly “fancy” restaurants with crazy prices.

The rich party crowd apparently also likes restaurants and clubs with a lot of noise. A couple we met in Saint-Martin told us about a couple restaurants we needed to go to, which apparently turn into pounding music venues as the evening goes on. That sounds like hell to us, so we carefully tried to stick to calmer choices.

I was kind of fascinated, if somewhat repulsed, by the people-watching in a place like this. You see parents with such over-privileged children that it’s hard to imagine these kids not being really messed up. And then you have the guys with trophy wives that they’ll eventually get bored with. And people coming out of designer boutiques loaded up with bags of flashy clothes. It’s fun to watch for a few days. But it makes us feel very, well, normal?

We loved the gorgeous beach here. And watching the scene. And five days was just enough. And now it’s nice to return to New York, and leave this beautiful shallowness behind.

The weather is mostly perfect. But most days deliver a brief rainfall, followed by a gorgeous rainbow.

Lunch in the main town of Gustavia, overlooking a harbor full of yachts and mega-yachts

…and the moment when the weather suddenly turns bad for a few minutes!

Our hotel is owned by the French luxury giant LVMH. So they had an evening reception to promote one of their fashion brands, Bulgari. People were trying on necklaces covered in diamonds at god-only-knows what kind of cost (Hundreds of thousands? Millions?). It was fun to witness, but we did not buy anything.

We had to share the resort boardwalks with lots of turtles

Enjoying yet another meal that’s “fancier” than what we normally prefer

One day we went out of our way to find a more modest place for lunch. It was OK, but we actually kind of missed the glamor of our resort!

Stopping for a pre-dinner drink right on the harbor in Gustavia

Breakfast overlooking Anse des Flamands

We rarely have cocktails in France because nobody knows how to make them. Not so at the Hôtel de Paris in Monte Carlo.

From Cap Ferrat we took an easy bus ride to our 25th and final destination of our personal Tour de France. The 45-minute bus ride took us east, passing through Monaco just before reaching our destination. In fact our hotel in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin was so close to Monaco that we walked into that principality one evening for dinner. I can’t recall ever walking to another country for dinner before.

This was mostly a beach stop for us. We stayed at a pretty posh resort with gorgeous views across the bay toward Monaco. That’s a nice way to end this journey. The good news is that the French Riviera is just stunningly beautiful. The water is so blue and so warm and wonderful. It’s close to heaven — but with a downside.

The view to our beach and across the bay to overbuilt crazy Monaco

Relaxing at our beach resort in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

Like our last stop, things here are a little TOO upscale for our taste. There is no shortage of really fancy restaurants, but we have a much harder time finding our sweet spot — small bistros serving extraordinary food at reasonable prices. France has really spoiled us!

So one night we just embraced this gilded corner of the world and booked dinner at the very fancy restaurant at the Hôtel de Paris in Monte Carlo, the upscale neighborhood of upscale Monaco. Our table was on a lovely terrace overlooking the Place du Casino and the famous Casino de Monte Carlo. The square was just packed with excited tourists, who seemed to just be taking in the scene of all the fancy people coming and going from this hotel and the casino.

But what really riled up the crowd was the roar of the Ferraris and Lamborghinis that would pull up. It seemed pretty silly to us to hear these cars go “VROOM VROOOOOM” as they moved at snail pace through the choked traffic. But that’s Monaco for you — 38,000 people with crazy hordes of money packed into a country of less than 1 square mile. As a result the place is so overbuilt it’s actually just kind of ugly.

Fancy dining in front of the Casino de Monte Carlo

…and the Place du Casino

So now we say goodbye to the Mediterranean and to an incredible summer journey that touched so many corners of this amazing country (France that is, not Monaco!) I feel a tinge of sadness as it comes to a close, but of course home is always nice, too.

Lunch at a well researched, lovely restaurant on the other side of Roquebrune

That little restaurant featured a bathroom with crazy animal art — and recorded animal noises!

From Roquebrune, looking east to Menton, the last city in France before the Italian border