The perch over the beach where we would spend every morning. Yes, those are Mark’s legs peeking out.

After 16 nights at three resorts in the Ubud region it was time to move south, down to the Bukit peninsula on the southern end of Bali. This is very different from the jungles and forests of central Bali; it has, instead, a dry and stony landscape with massive cliffs on the western shore. So a big change from what we’ve been experiencing.

First, though, we had to get there. Now, that shouldn’t be too hard: it was only about 42 miles from our resort in Ubud to the Bulgari resort we were going to. How bad can that be? Don’t ask. You just crawl getting through Ubud and in fact it took us some two-and-a-half hours to make the trip. Yikes!

Now, to be fair, we did choose to make one stop en route. Pretty much every resort we’ve stayed at on this trip has their dishes made – typically custom made – at a place called Kevala here on the island. We’ve loved the ceramics and were going right past their main store in Denpasar so we made a quick stop (and picked up a few pieces for home; perfect souvenirs…). But we were in the store for no more than 10 or at most 15 minutes so, yeah, the traffic.

A couple frangipani trees, the infinity pool, and the Indian Ocean

Once we got to the resort though it was just as beautiful as we’d hoped. The property is apparently 20 years old, meaning that the gardens and grounds are fully mature, but it feels very modern, probably the most beautiful place we’ve stayed so far.

The resort itself is way up on a cliff and we didn’t think it had any beach access at all. When we got there, though, we discovered there was a funicular-type thing headed down. So every day after breakfast we’d head down and – because we’re early birds – get the best of the 10 chairs there. Even tbough it was on the beach you couldn’t actually go in the water – it was all rocky and dangerous. But just the roar of the surf and the isolation and natural beauty kept bringing us back again and again. Even our last day, when we were leaving at noon for our next destination, we had to spend a couple hours down there before coming up to pack.

The almost shockingly steep funicular

But once you got down there they’ve carved this little oasis into nature. Note that while there is a sandy beach you can’t swim there – the bottom is all sharp and dangerous rocks. It was still glorious anyway.

Oh, and did I mention coming back up? Notwithstanding the (shockingly steep) funicular that ran for some 500 feet, there were a total of 301 steps – some of them decidedly big and steep steps – from the beach up to the roadway leading to the lunch restaurant. For us, at least, it was worth it though it was obvious based on seating capacity that most people don’t ever go down there. And meanwhile, we could see a fair amount of construction down there, a bit away from our perch. Turns out there was a restaurant there that needed a refresh, so they were doing pretty much a gut renovation while we were there. In other words, there used to be a restaurant and there will be a restaurant in the area, but not during our visit. Sad.

As for food, we enjoyed lunch at the resort every day since nothing else was in the area. At night though, we’d usually use the Uber-equivalent here and go maybe 20 minutes to little tourist zones that had some good places. One night Lebanese that was pretty authentic, another night French, and yet another night supposedly Italian but there was stuff on the menu I’ve never seen in an Italian restaurant. All good though.

Lunch with a few of the ocean

All good and way cheaper than at the resort. The place was really gorgeous and the service was great. The prices were steep even by New York standards though, and that’s saying something. And honestly a martini there was no more than half the size of what we would typically get at our favorite restaurants at home so that was not ideal.

Now it’s on to our last stop. We’re on our way to a legitimate beach stop in Nusa Dua. Amusingly, we decided to check our blog to see what we’d written the last time we were there, back in 2017. The opening line in that blog was “Nusa Dua – an enclave of five-star resorts in southern Bali – might be the most beautiful place we’ve been that I just can’t imagine going back to.” Maybe we should have done some research before making that our last stop!

This sign that we passed a couple times on the way to dinner pretty much sums up our feeling about Bali

Mark wanted his picture taken on the beach so he went down to pose

Fortunately I was still taking pictures two seconds later when this is what he looked like

Flowers, pool chairs, the pool, the ocean

Bulgari is a very high end jewelry maker (among other things) and they like to advertise themselves

The view from our patio over the pool

Our cabin under a full moon

One more picture of the main pool

And finally, our last shot on our last morning. Mark is still down there squeezing every last minute he can out of that beach chair.

Enjoying the beauty of Bali

Our third stop for five nights was a Banyan Tree resort in the little village of Buahan, north of the city of Ubud by maybe 30 minutes. This was very much a rain forest kind of experience, way up in the hills of Bali. Very isolated and definitely putting the “rain” in rain forest.

There wasn’t a lot to do in Buahan so we didn’t do a lot. Not even a gym here, the only one of the six resorts we’ll be visiting without a gym. That’s not to say we couldn’t get exercise. Late one morning we walked down to a waterfall. It was a long way down on steep and rough-cut stairs but surprisingly even longer coming back up – it really wiped me out. And I did a few long walks along the road into the countryside that, notwithstanding a few rogue dogs, were pretty pleasant.

Mark and Jim down at the water falls. It was beautiful but the hike back up was intense.

The highlight here was the food. The place is sufficiently remote that the room rate included both breakfast and dinner; there were no realistic options for dinner besides the resort. And while sometimes we can get bored with the same resort menu this one was pretty spectacular: every night a different menu that was almost Michelin-star worthy. To top it off, we learned that the menu is on a four-day cycle but we were staying five nights. So the chef made us a special meal on the fifth night, just so we wouldn’t have to repeat anything. That was really over-the-top service!

Dinner at the resort. The portions were small but there were multiple courses all amazing. I assure you we never went hungry.

A lot of the produce served here was grown on site. Here Tanti is giving me a tour of some of the garden. She would keep pulling one leaf after another, explaining how they used it both in cooking and for medicine. I was enchanted!

The other food highlight was a restaurant called Begawan Biji, maybe 20 or 25 minutes south of the resort. It’s actually much closer to Mandapa, our last stop, and we’d gone there for lunch once and LOVED it. The restaurant is surrounded by its own gardens and most of what they serve is very local and very fresh. So off we went for a return lunch and it was just as good the second time. Definitely a keeper!

Lunch at Begawan Biji. The food, the view, the company, the weather – it was perfection.

One of the things we started to notice years ago was that the higher up the “food chain” you go in terms of resort quality, the less likely you are to meet and get to know interesting people. We’re seeing that in spades on this trip: three stops, 17 nights in and we have literally not had a single conversation with anyone except staff. It’s all just very private and discreet with enormous amounts of private space. Which is great in many ways, but we enjoy meeting other travelers, too.

Thus our stop in Buahan was decidedly low key. A lot of reading, a bit of hiking and walking, a couple lunch excursions, some of the best resort meals ever and a lot of rain. On and off, on and off, day after day. Not really complaining – I guess you can’t expect a rain forest without rain, right?

Early morning view over the valley and our private pool

The rooms in Buahan were all individual cabins, all built without exterior walls so you just blended in with nature. When it rained you could get under the roof and at night there were mosquito nets but during the day it was seamless indoor-outdoor living.

The public pool. Since all of the cabins had private pools, this didn’t get a lot of use. After breakfast sometimes we’d go sit there to read, but sooner rather than later – typically sooner – it would start raining and we’d head to shelter. And you can see in the pool here, it was raining.

A view from our room

The birds liked our (heated) pool too

Another lunch excursion, this one to Jihwa at the Akohara resort. Good food and nice setting, but to be honest no Begawan Biji…

Jim at Jihwa

Another view from our lunch perch at Begawan Biji

A banana plantation on one of my walks out of the resort

Rice fields on my walk

Three times while I was walking outside the resort I’d see these groups of school kids out marching … somewhere

In this picture I was headed down to the waterfall but turned around for the picture. By the time I was coming back up I was way sweatier than this!

This was the walk down to our room

And Mark enjoying the pool

Donning pink shirt and pink-striped socks, and I’m ready to settle into the beach cabana that was to be our home most days at Amankila

We first came to Bali in 1996, 30 years ago. We loved it then and it’s a place we love coming back to. A Buddhist island in the world’s largest Moslem country – and the fourth largest country in the world after India, China, and the U.S. – it’s an island of incredible beauty, happy people, great tourist infrastructure, and often amazing food. We’re spending four-plus weeks on the island with six stops, all in beautiful resorts. It should be an extremely relaxing journey.

First, though, we had to get out of New York City. We’d waited until after the Fourth of July semiquincentennial celebrations, forgetting back when we were planning the trip that Trump would of course totally screw up what should have been a unifying national celebration. And on top of that on July 1, the day we normally leave for our summer vacation, the weather turned brutally hot in the city – a couple days with temperatures over 100 degrees. Definitely could have missed that.

Finally on the evening of of July 5th we set out on an 18-and-a-half hour flight to Singapore, the longest flight in the world, before connecting to Bali. Not so fast, though: a big thunderstorm stranded us on the tarmac for something like two-and-a-half hours, not exactly what you’re looking forward to when waiting to set off on the longest flight in the world. The delay, of course, meant that we would miss our connecting flight, further delaying our arrival in Bali. And as though that weren’t enough when we finally got to Bali my suitcase didn’t. Ugh. Not a great start.

View of the beach area from half-way down the hill. There were three pools above us and the one down there, plus of course the beach. Altogether 292 steps from our room to the beach, but they had buggies if you were lazy.

From there though things got way better. First stop for six nights was Amankila, part of the Aman chain on the east coast of the island. It is perhaps the premier hotel/resort chain in the world and we were pretty excited to stay there. And once my bag arrived the next morning we were set.

The resort was every bit as beautiful as we could have hoped, with service that was nearly perfect. It was all set on a steep hill above the Lombok Strait (Lombok being a neighboring island that we visited in 2014) with a variety of pools and a very private beach. Our days consisted of an early breakfast, then down to the beach where individual cabanas provided all the privacy and comfort you could dream of. A couple hours of lounging and reading, then off to the gym for some exercise before lunch. Afternoon was more reading and napping, then dinner. Not a tough regimen to fall into.

Our beach faced the Lombok Strait. At one point during our stay I was confused whether Bali was in the Pacific or Indian Ocean. Turns out the north coast faces the Pacific while the southern part of the island faces the Indian Ocean. And the Lombok Strait is one of the main passageways to exchange water between the two oceans. On top of that, the Strait is remarkably deep, making it a great resting place for these container ships waiting for their next assignment.

There was one off-resort excursion, dinner in a nearby town at Vincent’s, a jazz club that got pretty good reviews. It was definitely cheaper than eating at the resort but the food wasn’t that good while the music and ambience weren’t any better. So we stayed on the resort for the rest of the visit. Fortunately there were three restaurants available so we didn’t really get too bored with our options.

One thing that I found remarkable was that, oddly, we had almost no jet lag. I mean, Bali is 12 hours ahead of New York so you just can’t get further away. Yet by the second day I was sleeping until 5:30 or even 6:00 AM which is just about ideal. So we’ve settled in pretty well here. (Note about that 12-hour time difference. I’m writing this the night after Trump’s stupid, lying speech about election security. I wanted to know when it started so I asked ChatGPT. It said that the speech was set to start at 9:00 PM EDT, so in Bali that would be 9:00 AM Saturday. Umm, no, 9:00 PM on Thursday in DC is 9:00 AM on FRIDAY in Bali, not Saturday. Important lesson about trusting AI!)

The view from our typical lunch restaurant on the beach. I’m not sure I’d ever obsessed about the evolutionary genius of these palm trees, unbelievably tall yet remarkably stable even in heavy winds. How can something that long and thin hold up?

From here we had towards Ubud, the heart and cultural center of the island. Very different from the beach vibe here but, based on our earlier visits, someplace we’re pretty excited about.

Mark with a bowl of gazpacho and glass of rosé for lunch

The view from our private pool across the Strait

More resort beauty

One afternoon on the beach I watched these guys hauling a big old stump through the water heading … somewhere

But then they had to bring it ashore. Turns out floating it was a LOT easier than dragging it across the beach. I mean, that’s how they moved heavy things in medieval Europe!

Reading at low-ish tide

And settling in for for my morning read

Mark liked these piggies decorating the lunch restaurant

And finally, when we think of Bali the most remarkable thing is that the Balinese take beauty very seriously. Here you will see they even decorate the urinals with frangipani flowers. That is taking beauty seriously.