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All posts for the month March, 2018

Michigan: LaSalle & Ann Arbor

Posted by Jim St. George on March 27, 2018
Posted in: USA. Leave a Comment

Here I am with Pat & Jenny, Mark’s brother and sister-in-law up in Ann Arbor on a mildly graffiti-heavy alley

We spent five nights in Michigan, four at Mark’s parents in the southeastern corner of the state and one up in Ann Arbor where Mark went to school and where his brother and sister-in-law recently moved. Now, we’ve spent a lot of time in La Salle over the years but we still managed to pack in a fair amount of touristy kinds of things. Top of the list was a visit to the Detroit Institute of Arts, truly a great museum. It’s most famous for Diego Rivera’s Detroit Industry Murals – 27 panels depicting work at Ford painted in 1932 and 1933 – which he considered among his finest works. While I was out wandering somewhat more aimlessly Mark had a docent explain what the whole thing meant; since I wasn’t there, though, all I can add is that it makes working seem noble. As a retiree I’m somewhat skeptical.

Needless to say, there’s a lot more to the collection (estimated to be worth over $8 billion) than that. Lots and lots of American artists, lots of Olde Europe and Impressionism, plenty of modern art. In all a great way to spend a couple of hours. And then to top off our little spree into Detroit we went into Greektown and had – this will surprise you – a great Greek lunch.

High on my list of favorites at the DIA was this self-portrait by Otto Dix. Amusingly we first saw this in Genoa, Italy, where it was on loan for some special exhibit. I fell in love with it there but had forgotten that I would see it here. Nice surprise!

But the DIA wasn’t our only cultural excursion. The next day we drove south into Toledo to see the Toledo Museum of Art. Nothing on the scale of the DIA, of course, but still some great pieces with good descriptions and explanations of why they were important. One in particular – Childe Hassam’s Rainy Day in Boston – made me almost homesick. Watching all the kids going through on school tours reminded me that as far as I can remember we never did that when I was a kid; I don’t remember a single art museum tour from childhood. Not surprising, perhaps, given the distance we would have been from any reputable museum, and I undoubtedly would have been bored out of my mind if I had gone, but still sad to think how many kids who would enjoy it don’t get the chance. And it makes me appreciate the work that our friend Laura is doing at the National Gallery in DC, training to be a docent specializing in giving tours to kids. It wasn’t the case with me, but there is no question that for a number of kids art is what inspires and motivates them, if given a chance. Of course after a museum visit we needed lunch so this time we stopped at a Lebanese restaurant on the way home. The amusing thing about our stop was that we ordered a mixed plate for two to share among the four of us and we still had a lot of leftovers to take home. We just shake our heads at the portion sizes in American restaurants!

This mixed platter for two served four of us and there was still plenty for leftovers!

Besides the art museums a lot of time in Michigan is spent preparing for and consuming meals. The “preparing” part, of course, is Mark’s parents while the “consuming” part is more about Mark and me. Smoked pork chops, great salads, big breakfasts, and, in what is becoming a tradition, steak tartare.

Steak tartare at Chez Sullivan

After our four-day visit in La Salle, then, we went up to Ann Arbor for a night with Pat & Jenny, Mark’s brother and sister-in-law. They moved up there a year ago from Monroe largely because that cut Jenny’s commute from something over an hour each way to maybe a 25-minute walk, a pretty good change. But beyond that Ann Arbor is just a very cool college town. We stopped for a drink at Ann Arbor’s oldest gay bar (it was kind of boring in the early evening) and then went to a great chop-house for some major steaks. The next morning it was off to the airport for a morning flight to Minneapolis where we were to pick up a car and drive to Duluth.

Our nieces Molly & Lydia enjoying appetizers with Mark’s dad

An early morning view of Otter Creek

“Rainy Day in Boston” from the Toledo Museum of Art

I was really struck by this piece in the DIA by Kehinde Wiley. He poses African American men whom he encounters on the street in classical poses – in this case as St. Francis of Paola – introducing people of color into the tradition of the Great Masters. Then, in doing a little research on him, I discovered he’s the guy who painted the new portrait of Barack Obama that was recently installed in the National Portrait Gallery!

A small piece of Diego Rivera’s “Detroit Industry” mural

Van Gogh’s “Houses at Auvers”, painted in 1890 shortly before he killed himself

And finally, a stray kitty that at least occasionally adopts Mark’s parents’ home for his meals

Vienna, VA

Posted by Jim St. George on March 20, 2018
Posted in: North America, USA. 4 comments

Clockwise starting with me that’s Laura, Mark, Jeanne, Jamal, and younger Jamal on C&O Canal’s Billy Goat Trail

We’re back in the States for a couple of months, mostly for a pretty grim reason: I have an 11-year-old great-nephew in the closing stages of terminal cancer. So we’re on our way to Duluth for what is likely a final visit. First, though, we had to get back to North America. One of the joys of traveling the way we do is that when we decide to change continents we can hunt around for both departure and arrival cities and just take the best option. In this case the best option was to fly into Dulles Airport outside DC which is perfect, since Mark’s sister Jeanne and her family, along with our great friend Laura and her family, all live in the area.

And then – notwithstanding the otherwise sad reason for our visit and the fact that we’d just flown 12 time zones from Bangkok (yes, that’s the worst jet lag you can get) – we had an absolutely wonderful three-day visit. Part of the fun was just hanging out, spending time with our niece and nephew, both of whom are growing up into interesting humans. Who would have guessed?

Just hanging out, reading the comics for the first time in maybe 10 years. I didn’t know Mark took this until I saw it here but somehow I think it’s cool.

And then there were the excursions. First up was a guided tour of the National Gallery, one of the Smithsonian museums in DC. Laura was selected for a two-year training program as a docent there and while she’s not yet finished the training it was still really interesting to have her take us around and show us several of her favorite pieces, hearing the back story that you’d never know without an expert guide. Unlike too many guides she didn’t just drone on and on so it was really a wonderful opportunity for us.

Jeanne & Laura exhibiting Hans Haacke’s “Condensation Wall” in the National Gallery. It’s just glass and moisture, with the shapes and intensity shifting throughout the day as the sunlight and temperature changes.

Another highlight was a little dinner party for what seemed like 40 people or so that Jeanne just threw together. Her family, Laura’s family, us, their friends Mike & Basil and Mike, even our old, old friend Grace and her husband Mark. So less than 40, but still a big crowd, and she just threw it together like it was nothing after we’d been out for a hike during the afternoon. Impressive.

The spread Jeanne threw together in her spare time. There’s hummus, beans, roasted veggies, kibbeh, fish, rice … and plenty of wine and cocktails.

Grace & Mark were happy to be reunited at Jeanne’s dinner party

Speaking of meals, we went to two really good restaurants in Vienna, both of which were notable. First up was Basin’s on Church, a nice restaurant with great cocktails where Jeanne had taken us once before. The difference this time was that her son Jamal is now the host there, acting all like a young adult and everything. The food was quite good but what really struck us is just how big the portions are. We’ve noticed before – and continue to be amazed as our U.S. travels continue – that portion sizes in American restaurants are just huge. Big.

At any rate, there was one other great restaurant experience, too, this one at a Vienna restaurant called Vienna. Set in a completely unassuming suburban office building just a couple miles from Jeanne’s house the restaurant was nothing short of spectacular. Not at all what one might fear from a suburban restaurant in a random setting, I thought it was great.

And finally, then there was a nice hike along the C&O Canal outside DC. Young Jamal had recently been there and showed us the Billy Goat Trail on a beautiful sunny late winter day. Very nice way to get outside a bit before Jeanne’s dinner party.

Laura, Mark, Jeanne, and the two Jamals along Billy Goat Trail

And then just that fast it was time to leave. From here we’re visiting Mark’s parents in Michigan before moving on to Duluth to see my family. We have a couple months in the States and so far it’s started out pretty great.

Jeanne, Jamal, & Laura take a break from hiking

Jeanne & here baby!

A picture of me and Mark that’s not a selfie!

And one that is a selfie

Me & Laura

Me & Jeanne on a great little trail behind her house that provide me with a few hours of good walking

And finally, Grace, Mark, & Laura. They were all friends back at the University of Michigan and then, pre-marriage for all of us, we were roommates in DC. Old friends are always the best friends.

Bangkok Again?

Posted by Jim St. George on March 10, 2018
Posted in: Asia, Thailand. 5 comments

Le Bouchon is certainly one of our favorite restaurants in Bangkok. Just a tiny little space right off one of the city’s most notorious sex districts, you walk in and are immediately transported to France. Small space, dark, tables close together, and mostly great food. Sadly, I had steak tartare that wasn’t really all that great. Mark’s meal, though, and my escargot starter, were all great.

Yup, Bangkok again. This time just two days as we transition from Koh Samui to winter in the U.S. No need to do any intense shopping this time in Bangkok as we can do all the shopping we want in a couple days. So this was just an opportunity to go back to our favorite restaurants and hang out a bit. Thus not much to add here except a few pictures.

Next stop: Dulles National Airport!

Our favorite lunch spot is the unfortunately named Tummy Yummy. The name is silly but the food, service, and space are all great.

That’s me, just outside Tummy Yummy

With nothing really to do I spent more time than usual in Lumpini Park, a big green space in the center of the city. To see this you’d think Bangkok is some pretty, perhaps even slightly green city. You’d be wrong, but this was still a lovely view. The sad part is that with mid-day temperatures in the mid-90s it’s just too damned hot to enjoy it that much. Of course, as I would stroll through the park or sit and read for a while, I’d see guys jogging around the park. I like running as much as the next guy but not when it is in the 90s for God’s sake.