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All posts for the month December, 2016

That's me, snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. As you can see, not too crowded.

That’s me, snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef. As you can see, not too crowded.

Cairns is a typical jumping off place for all the adventure that northeast Australia has to offer, especially the rainforests and the Great Barrier Reef. We didn’t take advantage of all that in Cairns because we had the time to dig in a little deeper and get a little closer.

Our first stop from Cairns, then, was the Silky Oaks Lodge just outside of Massman, a little town near the World Heritage listed Wet Tropics of Queensland. These “wet tropics” stretch more than 250 miles along the northeast Australian coast and are noted for their natural beauty and rich biodiversity. Biodiversity indeed. Sitting on the balcony of our cabin just the first day a few parrots hung out playing or fighting, I couldn’t tell. And regularly you’d see the sunlight hit a stunning florescent blue butterfly that just made you swoon. I’m sure a serious nature guy would have seen more than butterflies and parrots, but they made me happy.

The pool at Silky Oaks Lodge

The pool at Silky Oaks Lodge

The lodge itself was beautiful, quiet and peaceful, set just inside the start of the rainforest itself. It was a perfect setting for me. You were clearly in a rainforest, heaving with lush plants and beautiful butterflies and parrots and all that kind of thing. But because it was on the edge, it was easy to step away and go for a run, too. Perfect.

The “quiet and peaceful” part was a bit of an issue one day, though, as they were renovating a cabin right next to ours. But we didn’t complain because when the manager found that we were planning on just laying low that day, with nothing scheduled except reading and relaxing, he offered us two free spa treatments to get us out of our room, so that worked out just fine. Beyond that the lodge was right on the Mossman River and, with an energetic 20-minute hike upriver on a well-marked trail, we could get to a beautiful and pretty remote swimming hole. Not the best swimming hole in the world, but a very pleasant place to swim, relax, and find a rock to read on.

How's that for a great swimming hole?

How’s that for a great swimming hole?

The big event from Mossman was a drive into Port Douglas down on the coast for a snorkeling adventure on the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s largest collection of coral reefs and truly a wonder of the world. Mark & I made it here once before, when we vacationed in Australia in 2004. It wasn’t a great experience for us then; we remember it as being too crowded, too many snorkelers in too small a space. This time, though, it was fabulous, definitely putting the Great into the Barrier Reef. There were only maybe 30 or 40 snorkelers on our boat, and we stopped at places with no one else around so there was plenty of room to spread out. No pictures, unfortunately, since we don’t have an underwater camera, but it was fabulous.

In some ways the most important part of our stop in the Wet Tropics was a realization by both of us that we’re getting tired of traveling like this. When we started in 2013 I assumed that after just a couple of years we would start spending longer periods – a month or even two – in any one place. We did stop for a month in Puerta Vallarta, but that was nearly two years ago and we’ve been going pretty steady ever since. Three-and-a-half years now of mostly three- and four-day stops is a little too much.

We’re still eager to spend the next couple weeks exploring Australia so no immediate change of plans but then we’re going to slow down. Probably rent an apartment and spend a month in Bali shortly after New Years, then maybe another month somewhere in Thailand. Both places we know we love. March will bring us more travel and adventure – we’re going to spend a few weeks in over March and April in Japan – but we’re ready for a couple longer-term stays. After we finish up with Australia.

Lunch at the lodge: steak, salad, glass of rosé, rainforest. Not bad.

Lunch at the lodge: steak, salad, glass of rosé, rainforest. Not bad.

Lots of this, everywhere you looked

Lots of this, everywhere you looked

Mark along Cairns's Esplanade

Mark along Cairns’s Esplanade

We left a cool, wet spring in New Zealand to fly to a hot summer day in Cairns, a city of about 150,000 on the northeast coast of Australia. I hadn’t realized just how tropical Cairns (pronounced something like Caehnz; the “r” is silent) was going to be. At about 17 degrees south of the equator it’s the equatorial equivalent of say Oaxaca in southern Mexico. So yeah, surprisingly hot, up around 90 degrees for much of the day, and a bit of a shock after our two weeks in New Zealand.

Mark's selfie amidst towering palm trees

Mark’s selfie amidst towering palm trees

First, though, we had to get through our flight from Auckland and a real rookie mistake we made. As we got to the check-in counter at Virgin Australia the woman asked for our Australian visas. “Visas? Australia doesn’t require a visa for Americans.” Ah, yeah they do. Now, they didn’t 12 years ago, the last time we were down under, but sometimes governments change requirements. We’d just never checked. Fortunately Air New Zealand is authorized to sell Australian electronic visas so we headed down to their desk and were set to go. Message to self, though: check on entry requirements in countries you haven’t been to in a while.

And then, the flight. Oh my God. Our seats were directly behind a Chinese couple and their 12- or 15-month old child. Who screamed. More than any child I’ve ever experienced in my 61 years. As in, Spawn of the Devil screaming. It got creepy after a while, when you realized that something, something was badly wrong. Was he being abducted? Was he horribly sick? Did he have a diaper pin sticking in him? You really felt terrible for him and his parents, or whoever those adults traveling with him were. And it went on and on and on, for probably 90 minutes of the two-hour flight. Crazy. And disturbing.

The Lagoon in the middle of the city is a great place to hang out

The Lagoon in the middle of the city is a great place to hang out

Finally, though, we got to Cairns and I really liked it, a perfect three-day stop. Not for the reasons everyone else likes it – it’s a magnet for people off to see the Great Barrier Reef and other adventure-type travels. We just wanted to settle into Australia for a few days, warm up, and dry out. We’re going to do a day trip out to the Barrier Reef from a later stop so we didn’t have any need to do anything in Cairns in particular.

These flame trees are native to Australia. They bloom in the spring and we seemed to time our visit perfectly.

These flame trees are native to Australia. They bloom in the spring and we seemed to time our visit perfectly.

So why did I like it? It’s just got a nice healthy-small-city-on-the-ocean vibe to it. The Esplanade is their coastal walking/running/biking/hanging out area and just an easy place to while away parts of the day. You can tell that the locals are pretty seriously into exercise, as there are all sorts of people doing all sorts of things throughout the day. There are even official signs posted showing the free exercise classes offered along the Esplanade throughout the day. And the Esplanade includes a man-made swimming lagoon that may be the biggest urban pool I’ve ever seen, with lots of fit, healthy Aussies hanging out all day.

Beyond that Mark & I took a long (and hot) walk one day up to a great Botanical Garden, and I made the mistake of going out of my way to go to a modern art museum that was supposed to be hip and happening, what BuzzFeed called “definitely worth a visit.” It wasn’t; in reality it was tiny and boring. Lunches were harbor-side, while we found a tasty Greek taverna for dinners.

The Flecker Garden in Cairns. Clockwise from upper left: Lipstick Palm, Orchid, a hybrid Brownea (a cross between a Rose of Venezuela and Panama Flame Tree), and another Orchid.

The Flecker Garden in Cairns. Clockwise from upper left: Lipstick Palm, Orchid, a hybrid Brownea (a cross between a Rose of Venezuela and Panama Flame Tree), and another Orchid.

And I was reminded of the value of advance planning while in Cairns. When we left Cambridge back in 2013 we had a couple prescriptions of Cipro, a miracle drug for, um, stomach problems. We haven’t needed it much, but when you do, you just thank God you still have the pills at hand. ‘Nuff said!

A lovely little salmon salad at our favorite outdoor harbor-side lunch spot

A lovely little salmon salad at our favorite outdoor harbor-side lunch spot

A clay plate by one Stephan Bird in the KickArts gallery. Bernard Leach is described as the "Father of British studio pottery." Apparently Mr. Bird has an issue with him.

A clay plate by one Stephan Bird in the KickArts gallery. Bernard Leach is described as the “Father of British studio pottery.” Apparently Mr. Bird has an issue with him.

Torch Ginger, used both for decoration and for flavoring Malaysian dishes

Torch Ginger, used both for decoration and for flavoring Malaysian dishes

Don't know what this was, but I liked it

Don’t know what this was, but I liked it

A view of the Remarkables, Queenstown's surrounding mountain range

A view of the Remarkables, Queenstown’s surrounding mountain range

Our week-long exploration of New Zealand’s South Island started well enough. When you rent a car from Hertz with the intention of driving through both islands they don’t want you taking the car on the ferry, and we didn’t want the expense of taking the car on the ferry. Instead you drop off the car in at the ferry terminal in Wellington (without formally returning it), and then just pick up a new one in Picton when you get off the boat. Simple as that.

We got on the ferry and the ride was beautiful. It takes about three hours to traverse the Cook Strait and then travel down Queen Charlotte Sound through what felt like fjords or Alaska’s Inside Passage. Calm, relaxing, beautiful, with quiet spaces available to read … pretty much a perfect journey.

Most of my pictures from crossing the Cook Strait and sailing down Queen Charlotte Sound got erased in a "new phone" mishap. This was the sole survivor, which doesn't do justice to the beauty of the passage.

Most of my pictures from crossing the Cook Strait and sailing down Queen Charlotte Sound got erased in a “new phone” mishap. This was the sole survivor, which doesn’t do justice to the beauty of the passage.

The hell started when we got to Picton. There was quite a line at the Hertz office and by the time we got to an agent she said “You don’t have a reservation and we don’t have any more cars.” The “no more cars” was believable; the recent earthquake on the South Island had stranded a lot of cars and everyone was having a problem with supply. But we had a reservation, we were sure of that. If they didn’t have a car they would have called us to say “Don’t come down here!” And they were giving cars to others with reservations. We called the Hertz support line and they were sure we had a reservation. The people in Picton didn’t think so, though, and they weren’t giving us a car.

No one else had cars either. You know, that earthquake thing. A delightful woman at a neighboring, local car rental place (Ace, if you’re ever in New Zealand) tried to help us, including calling around to all the other options, but she came up empty handed too. It was looking grim; we were starting to research hotels in Picton until they could find us a car. Eventually, though, after an hour or two of anxiety, she came through and not only found a car but – importantly – found one with a trunk big enough for all our luggage. Finally we were off to see the South Island. Thank you lovely lady of Ace!

First on the agenda was two nights in Nelson, a two-hour drive west from Picton. The drive introduced us to the millions and millions of bright yellow broom plants that cover the South Island’s roadsides this time of year. Not only was the ubiquity of broom plants a subtle reminder of British history (the plant was the emblem of a certain French family of Anjou who thus became known by it’s Latin name, plants genista, or the Plantagenets; they ruled England for 350 years starting with Henry II in the early 12th century), but they brightened up everything along the road. Nelson itself was a cute town with a small pedestrian mall area that seemed to have a great little night-time buzz, definitely a place one could hang out in for a while.

The great weather in Nelson made hiking measurably better than it had been on the North Island. Here we are on the Abel Tasman Coast Track, one of New Zealand's greatest Great Walk.

The great weather in Nelson made hiking measurably better than it had been on the North Island. Here we are on the Abel Tasman Coast Track, one of New Zealand’s greatest Great Walk.

A big advantage for starting in Nelson was that the weather was supposed to be good there and miserable in the rest of the South Island. And indeed, the weather was fabulous, perfect for a day-hike we did in Abel Tasman National Park. The Coast Track is a famous three- to five-day hike all along (surprise!) the coast of the Tasman Sea, often described as the most beautiful of New Zealand’s Great Walks, extremely well-marked and easy to follow. As we’re not big on backpacking or sleeping in huts – or at least one of us isn’t… – we just hiked the first 10 kilometers out and then turned around and came back. It was a beautiful hike tramp with glorious views of the sea and kayakers and remote beaches, even occasional forays deeper into the woods. At the start there were lots of other people, mostly also on day-hikes, but after a few kilometers we encountered others only much more infrequently. After the hell of our Alpine hike on the North Island, this seemed like heaven.

Views like this were pretty common

Views like this were pretty common

From Nelson it was a long six-hour drive southwest to Franz Joseph Glacier, a little town right next to – you guessed it – Franz Joseph Glacier. It’s supposed to be one of New Zealand’s prime attractions, but you couldn’t prove it by us. We got in too late to see it the one night we were spending in the village, and the next morning, when we planned to see the glacier on our way out of town, the weather was cold and rainy. It’s a 40-minute hike from the car park to the glacier and no one felt like taking that on in the rain. Somehow sitting in cold, wet clothes for the remaining four-plus hour drive didn’t seem that attractive. So except for a pleasant early morning run – before it started raining – Franz Joseph was kind of a bust. Kind of like the Emperor after which it was named who ruled over the demise of the Hapsburg Empire.

Our penultimate stop was in Queenstown, the self-proclaimed “Global Adventure Capital.” Nestled into the remarkably beautiful Remarkables (an aptly named mountain range) and alongside Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand’s third-largest lake, you’ll never be bored in Queenstown. Hiking, biking, and zip-lining are only the start. It’s a bungee-jumping center, with mountain bikers careening down steep mountains and parasailing and God only knows what other delights. For the most part, we stuck with the hiking, primarily a great 13-mile jaunt where Mark’s parents drove us out to some golf course along the lake and we hiked a nice trail back into the city. The day before I’d hiked up to a big peak overlooking Queenstown – most people take the gondola up there – but I lost all my pictures during a new-phone booboo so that one doesn’t really count. (Strangely I lost a bunch of pictures of the ferry ride to South Island all the way through Queenstown, but I recovered pictures from the North Island that I thought I’d lost. I’ve added them to the post on the North Island so if you’re looking for pictures of Mark in his bright and happy yellow raincoat, now they’re there!)

Along the hike back to Queenstown where we encountered more of the happily blooming broom plants

Along the hike back to Queenstown where we encountered more of the happily blooming broom plants

That hike took us through fields used more by cattle and sheep than people, so this technologically appropriate passage over the fence worked great

That hike took us through fields used more by cattle and sheep than people, so this technologically appropriate passage over the fence worked great

Finally, it was back to Auckland for two more nights. We took Mark’s parents to Soul, the great bar-restaurant that Mark and I had enjoyed on our earlier stops, and they liked it too. And then on our last night, Mark & I actually had friends visiting from Boston. John and Shayna were on their honeymoon, 11 months after their wedding in Boston. John is the CTO for our company, a guy who started as an intern and about whom, after his first week, we knew would some day run the company. So we had a chance to catch up on some of what was going on back at the office and commiserate over the awful, truly depressing state of American politics today. It was too short a visit with great friends, but it was the only day we had so it had to do.

Shayna, Mark, and John Lee, great friends from Boston

Shayna, Mark, and John Lee, great friends from Boston

And that was New Zealand. The next morning we were off to Cairns, Australia, Mark’s parents were headed back to Michigan, and John & Shayna were off to Japan. Two weeks wasn’t nearly long enough for New Zealand so we’ll have to come back the next time we’re ready for a little South Pacific island hopping.

Me with Mark's parents on our last day in New Zealand

Me with Mark’s parents on our last day in New Zealand

It's spring in New Zealand and everything is blooming

It’s spring in New Zealand and everything is blooming

On the Abel Tasman Coast Track

On the Abel Tasman Coast Track

A pretty easy trail to follow, eh?

A pretty easy trail to follow, eh?

That's Adele Island out there. I can't believe that only a few years after her first album they're naming New Zealand islands after her.

That’s Adele Island out there. I can’t believe that only a few years after her first album they’re naming New Zealand islands after her.

Lots of kayakers plying the calm waters of the Tasman Sea

Lots of kayakers plying the calm waters of the Tasman Sea

Mark's parents on a break during the drive to Queenstown

Mark’s parents on a break during the drive to Queenstown

Mark & his Mom

Mark & his Mom

Hiking to Queenstown

Hiking to Queenstown

It was always threatening to rain on the hike into Queenstown, but Mark's happy yellow raincoat made it seem bright

It was always threatening to rain on the hike into Queenstown, but Mark’s happy yellow raincoat made it seem bright

Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables make a beautiful background for Queenstown and some great hiking

Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables make a beautiful background for Queenstown and some great hiking

One last shot of Queenstown from across Frankton Arm, a section of the lake that makes the walk to Queenstown deceptively long. That hill behind the city is the one I climbed the day before, taking great pictures, before losing them all because of a dumb mistake. Sad.

One last shot of Queenstown from across Frankton Arm, a section of the lake that makes the walk to Queenstown deceptively long. That hill behind the city is the one I climbed the day before, taking great pictures, before losing them all because of a dumb mistake. Sad.

And finally, me and Mark with John Lee, work colleagues and then friends for a number of years now

And finally, me and Mark with John Lee, work colleagues and then friends for a number of years now