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All posts for the month February, 2015

Carla the bartender at Cameleon. Mayhem ensued.

Carla the bartender at Cameleon. Mayhem ensued.

Ah, the opportunity to get way off the beaten track, hang out in a Mexican village with enough American and Canadian ex-pats to have the comforts we like, enjoy year-round pleasant temperatures, and do pretty much … nothing. Sometimes it sounds better than it ends up.

Ajijic is a colorful town. This graffiti is just the start of it.

Ajijic is a colorful town. This graffiti is just the start of it.

Here we are in Ajijic (Ah-hee-heek).” It’s a cute, colorful cobblestone town of some 15,000 nestled between the Sierra Madres and the shores of Lake Chalapa. At 5,000 feet above sea level the climate draws vacationers and retirees trying to escape both heat and cold. We found a beautiful little boutique hotel in an old hacienda and settled in to be charmed over a couple days before continuing on to Guadalajara.

What we didn’t realize is that Ajijic is apparently Spanish for “downscale, somewhat trashy ex-pats.” And not even cheap. We stopped by an Open House while wandering through town on Sunday. It was in a nice neighborhood, but a tiny place, two bedrooms that couldn’t have been more than 1,100 square feet total, and it had been marked down to $240,000. I thought the whole point of buying in a town like that was that you could live like a king. Maybe not.

Reading along the lake shore. Notice the grey. And the winter coat.

Reading along the lake shore. Notice the grey. And the winter coat.

At any rate, we didn’t prepare for having our first full day on Sunday. Now I understand people need a day off every so often. But does it have to happen every week? And all on the same day? So most everything was closed our first full day here. The really strange thing is that the few restaurants that were open close awfully early, typically around 7:00 PM. Really? Apparently Ajijicans eat their main Sunday meal by mid-afternoon and then everything just shuts up. Ultimately we found a bar for a couple drinks to watch the end of the Super Bowl – Go Pats! – and a place that made reasonably decent hamburgers. But this is one dead town on Sundays.

And me reading on our patio. Notice the sweater and, oh yeah, the blanket.

And me reading on our patio. Notice the sweater and, oh yeah, the blanket.

And then we were completely unprepared for what was to follow. Monday is some sort of big holiday, Constitution Day. Everything shut down again. At least this time we found one nice restaurant open into the evening. You’d think that after 21 months on the road – 21 months ago we left Cambridge – we’d know that Sundays aren’t great days to be tourists and that holidays are usually terrible days to be tourists. Someday we’ll remember it before it’s too late.

As if that weren’t enough, the weather has been terrible – cold, overcast, and occasionally rainy. This is the dry season and everyone keeps telling us it never rains in January or February. Never except this weekend.

The highlight of our long weekend here was Cameleon, the bar that makes you feel like you just walked onto a Jerry Springer set. Carla the bartender was fun and entertaining. I was sitting next to a youngish platinum blond who was complaining about the small-town aspect of Ajijic. “Right after I got here they started calling me the White Whore of Ajijic – and I hadn’t even done anything yet!” Her boyfriend, sitting next to her, was falling-down drunk, but not – as the night progressed – too drunk to start a fist fight with a Mexican guy who he thought was being too friendly with his girlfriend.

Can life get much better than that? Today we move on to Guadalajara where it’ll probably be dull by comparison.

On arrival at our hacienda, they gave us nice glasses of champagne. Then while we were drinking that they brought us small glasses of their house-infused rose and lavender tequila. Nice way to start!

On arrival at our hacienda, they gave us nice glasses of champagne. Then while we were drinking that they brought us small glasses of their house-infused rose and lavender tequila. Nice way to start!

It's been a while since we had a nice cat moment, but Ajijic filled that gap

It’s been a while since we had a nice cat moment, but Ajijic filled that gap

And not just cats. Dona was the house dog who was plenty happy to get out of the cold.

And not just cats. Dona was the house dog who was plenty happy to get out of the cold.

Our hacienda was beautiful but we didn't get a lot of opportunity to enjoy it outside or use the pool

Our hacienda was beautiful but we didn’t get a lot of opportunity to enjoy it outside or use the pool

Our bedroom was up in that tower. Windows on all four sides … to let the cold air in … and the rooster noises all day and all night

Our bedroom was up in that tower. Windows on all four sides … to let the cold air in … and the rooster noises all day and all night

Our first night we had dinner in the hotel. It was unseasonably cold and they have no heating (since it's never hold there) but the managed to build us a beautiful fire and put the table right next to it. And those salsas on the table were some of the best ever.

Our first night we had dinner in the hotel. It was unseasonably cold and they have no heating (since it’s never hold there) but the managed to build us a beautiful fire and put the table right next to it. And those salsas on the table were some of the best ever.

On our walk through Ajijic. Sweater, shirt, down vest. In Mexico!

On our walk through Ajijic. Sweater, shirt, down vest. In Mexico!

And one last picture of colorful Ajijic

And one last picture of colorful Ajijic

Mark & his mother celebrating the holidays

Mark & his mother celebrating the holidays

OK, that was a long break. We took six weeks off from blogging and really from our normal travel routine. We’re back on the road, now, so here’s the quick update.

Mark & I left Costa Rica just before Christmas and flew to San Diego where my brother and his family live out in the suburbs. My parents were there for several weeks – it’s warmer in San Diego in December and January than in Duluth – and my sister and her two kids were flying in for Christmas. Then right after Christmas Mark’s family – parents, siblings, spouses, and kids – came to spend a week in Carlsbad, the next town north from my brother’s place.

My sister Rebecca & sister-in-law Anita taking a very brief break from feeding us and taking care of … everything

My sister Rebecca & sister-in-law Anita taking a very brief break from feeding us and taking care of … everything

Mark & I are nothing if not efficient, and how much more efficient can you get at visiting with family than seeing damned near all of them in one swing through San Diego. So that’s what we did, 12 days driving around San Diego freeways, half at my brother’s house and half at the Sullivan family rental.

My niece Lily on Christmas morning, growing into a beautiful and charming young woman

My niece Lily on Christmas morning, growing into a beautiful and charming young woman

We had a great time with all of them, even spending one afternoon mixing the St. Georges and the Sullivans in my brother’s back yard. Don’t let them fool you about San Diego weather, though. It was pleasant enough some of the days, but on a few days it was downright cold, in the 30s to start the day. Still, a nice visit with family.

A special treat was meeting up in La Jolla for lunch with my long-ago coworker Bart & his wife Nina

A special treat was meeting up in La Jolla for lunch with my long-ago coworker Bart & his wife Nina

Early in January, then, we flew down to Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, for four weeks. We’re going to a wedding in Chicago in early February (yeah, Chicago in early February), so we figured we’d stay close to the States. We’d stay in PV for four weeks, Mark would study Spanish, I’d go to the beach, maybe rent a bike for a few days. Well. Mark didn’t like the Spanish schools when we got there, and they don’t bicycle in Vallarta. So we went to the beach. A lot. Beach, food & drinks, sleep. Repeat for four weeks.

There you are - feet, sand, water. That's really all you need.

There you are – feet, sand, water. That’s really all you need.

There were few breaks in the routine. I flew back to Duluth for a weekend to see family, and Mark’s parents came down to Vallarta for a week to share some meals and a few drinks. But mostly it was beach, food & drink, sleep.

Now we’re in Ajijic, a little colonial lake town in Jalisco state, not too far from Vallarta. We’ll spend a couple days here, a few days in the capital city of Guadalajara, and then – after a brief stop in Chicago – off to Bangkok, our favorite Asian travel hub. Then it’ll really feel like we’re back on our adventure!

Kids would come down to the beach most mornings and surf

Kids would come down to the beach most mornings and surf

There are great restaurants in Puerto Vallarta. This was a Nicoise salad with seared tuna that I loved. In the background was a Caprese salad that was as good as anything you could get in Italy.

There are great restaurants in Puerto Vallarta. This was a Nicoise salad with seared tuna that I loved. In the background was a Caprese salad that was as good as anything you could get in Italy.

We had a little two-room apartment in a hotel just a block off the beach. The little kitchen was perfect for making breakfast. And no, the bottle of Maker's Mark was not for breakfast; it was left over from last night's Happy Hour.

We had a little two-room apartment in a hotel just a block off the beach. The little kitchen was perfect for making breakfast. And no, the bottle of Maker’s Mark was not for breakfast; it was left over from last night’s Happy Hour.