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All posts for the month November, 2014

Mark's head at Manuel Antonio National Park

Mark’s head at Manuel Antonio National Park

Before we started this adventure some 18-plus months ago, we had at various times, been in all seven Central American countries. Oddly, though, the country we’d spent the least time in was Costa Rica, which many people say is one of the great tourist destinations in the world. So with a few weeks before joining family in San Diego for the Holidays, we figured Costa Rica was a perfect destination. And with our first stop under our belt, it sure looks as though it was a good choice.

A little, tiny example of wildlife in Costa Rica

A little, tiny example of wildlife in Costa Rica

To be honest, we have to thank my nephew Carl and his wife Hannah for the suggestion. A few months ago they decided to take their eight kids (yes, you read that right) to Costa Rica for a month and asked if we were going to be anywhere in the area. My first question was “What parents take their kids to such a cool place for a whole month, to say nothing of eight kids?” My second question was “How is that my nephew and his wife became those cool parents?”

At any rate, much of their trip was going to overlap with our time in Mexico that we’d already booked, but we realized that if we hurried down from San Miguel de Allende we could get there for the last three days of their stay. And to our delight there was a nice resort right next to the house they’d rented near the park so it worked perfectly.

My nephew Carl & his wife Hannah on the beach near the park

My nephew Carl & his wife Hannah on the beach near the park

Carl & Hannah live up in Fairbanks, Alaska, so we don’t get to spend a lot of time with them. And while three days at the end of the month-long trip isn’t a lot we packed a lot in, including one day zip lining with Carl, the two oldest boys, and Hannah’s sister who was along, too, and another day trip on a boat for snorkeling and assorted water merriment.

If this is what two-year-olds are like, I think parents overreact to that "terrible twos" thing. Hallie was simply adorable and she looks almost as good in pink as I do!

If this is what two-year-olds are like, I think parents overreact to that “terrible twos” thing. Hallie was simply adorable and she looks almost as good in pink as I do!

The most fun, though, was just hanging out with the family. Some people might think eight kids (ages eight months to 12 years) is a lot, but it was really fun. Particularly amusing was not note that Carl & Hannah are really not hovering, helicopter parents; presumably with eight kids that’s just not possible. So the kids take care of themselves and each other when the parents are busy with other things. Of course, being both adorable as all get out and well behaved doesn’t hurt.

After the zip lining and boat trip, we took Carl & Hannah out to dinner for their last night in Costa Rica while Hannah’s sister Chelsea stayed with the kids. I’m not sure how much they enjoyed the quiet time for adult conversations but I sure did. At one point during our visit I’d noticed how odd it was to notice that your little nephew was starting to turn gray. After that dinner I noted how nice it was to actually get to know your nephew and his wife. All in all a wonderful visit.

Mark & I both observed from the start that Haven was the elegant one of the crowd, and then I caught this very Jackie O shot on the boat

Mark & I both observed from the start that Haven was the elegant one of the crowd, and then I caught this very Jackie O shot on the boat

I loved this shot, too. We were in an evening market with Hannah picking up a bunch of stuff for dinner. That's Andrew walking with her (she's still recovering from a badly broken leg), Connor holding her hand, Hallie holding onto her sweater, and Chandler & Haven trailing behind. That's her life!

I loved this shot, too. We were in an evening market with Hannah picking up a bunch of stuff for dinner. That’s Andrew walking with her (she’s still recovering from a badly broken leg), Connor holding her hand, Hallie holding onto her sweater, and Chandler & Haven trailing behind. That’s her life!

Then we had a couple days on our own, so we actually went into the Park itself. It’s a tiny national park – at under 5,000 acres it’s the smallest national park in Costa Rica – but spectacularly beautiful, occasionally making lists of the best parks in the world; as Lonely Planet puts it, “…a stunning destination worthy of the tourist destination.” And stunning it was, as beautiful and perfect a beach as any we’ve seen, which is saying something.

This was our gorgeous spot on the beach in the park. No buildings, nobody selling anything, just beautiful water and soft sand. And the most aggressive raccoons you've ever seen trying to get any scrap of food they could.

This was our gorgeous spot on the beach in the park. No buildings, nobody selling anything, just beautiful water and soft sand. And the most aggressive raccoons you’ve ever seen trying to get any scrap of food they could.

But now we’re done with Manuel Antonio and headed south to Corcovado National Park on the Osa peninsula, a more isolated location for some hiking, maybe white water rafting, and whatever else you do in a remote jungle. We think there’s no Internet there, so we may not be back here for a while.

Near the end of the boat ride the tour guide handed out percussion instruments so we could accompany him on a couple songs. Chandler was seriously into it.

Near the end of the boat ride the tour guide handed out percussion instruments so we could accompany him on a couple songs. Chandler was seriously into it.

Another shot of the photogenic Haven

Another shot of the photogenic Haven

And Hope, another delightful little girl

And Hope, another delightful little girl

Playing uncle with Connor and the baby Creed. Or great uncle, as the case may be.

Playing uncle with Connor and the baby Creed. Or great uncle, as the case may be.

Oh yeah, it wasn't just the cute kids - Mark was there enjoying the zip line, too!

Oh yeah, it wasn’t just the cute kids – Mark was there enjoying the zip line, too!

Here we are, getting started

Here we are, getting started

Mark doing it in style

Mark doing it in style

I'm starting to think that no blog post should be considered complete without at least one foodie shot. Here's tuna in a green pepper sauce and a glass of crisp white wine for lunch. Life is good.

I’m starting to think that no blog post should be considered complete without at least one foodie shot. Here’s tuna in a green pepper sauce and a glass of crisp white wine for lunch. Life is good.

The streets of San Miguel de Allende - narrow, often steep, cobblestoned and colorful

The streets of San Miguel de Allende – narrow, often steep, cobblestoned and colorful

Years ago friends of ours told us we should go to San Miguel de Allende, a little city about 170 miles northwest of Mexico City. It was supposed to be beautiful, but who has time, especially when there are all those beaches to go to? So, with one week between our last beach stop and our visit to Costa Rica, we decided it was time to go to San Miguel.

Everything in San Miguel is beautiful

Everything in San Miguel is beautiful

Wow. It must be the most beautiful city in Mexico, and so atmospheric. The city started to get a reputation as an artist’s retreat after World War II and a growing number of foreign artists started to move there. Today, estimates that there are some 12,000 foreigners – many of them retirees, with a quality of life they could never afford in the U.S. – living there. It was only when we got there that you could really appreciate the attraction, particularly for an artist.

We were there for rain and shine, morning and evenings, they were all beautiful. Narrow, hilly cobblestone lanes. Spectacular Spanish colonial architecture. Bougainvilleas and other flowers everywhere. It was almost too beautiful to be true. In fact, because of the thousands of ex-pat retirees living there, the joke is that it’s starting to become more Disneyland than Mexico. If so, I’m OK with that.

More street scenes

More street scenes

When you get outside of the city you find a very different beauty all its own

When you get outside of the city you find a very different beauty all its own

And did I mention the weather? Even though it’s early November, much of Mexico of course remains hot. Not San Miguel, though. At over a mile in elevation, it has a wonderful spring-like climate through much of the year. Cool mornings and evenings, pleasantly warm during the day.

The salsas alone are enough to ruin a diet, since of course they require chips

The salsas alone are enough to ruin a diet, since of course they require chips

Along with all the tourists and American & Canadian retirees comes some darned good restaurants. Every day we had our pick of gorgeous places, usually with good food and even good cocktails. We treated ourselves one night with some of the best mezcal-based margaritas I’ve ever had (we usually avoid them because of the sugar). I’ve decided, in fact, that if I ever am given the power to name one cuisine that I can eat without adding pounds – just one – it would be Mexican.

But wait, there’s more! Since you’re out in the middle of Mexico, why not go horseback riding? Check. And mountain biking? Check. Amusingly, while we’re far more experienced with bikes than horses, it was the bikes that threw us (me twice) while we stayed on the horses. Go figure.

This is our last stop in Mexico until January, when we head to Puerto Vallarta so Mark can study Spanish and I can get some serious beach time. Tomorrow we’re off to Costa Rica.

Exploring the Mexican countryside by bike. Minutes after taking this I was lying on the ground bleeding a bit. I swear my bike just threw me off.

Exploring the Mexican countryside by bike. Minutes after taking this I was lying on the ground bleeding a bit. I swear my bike just threw me off.

Most of our trail was not this smooth; there were huge rocks all over the place just jumping out at us

Most of our trail was not this smooth; there were huge rocks all over the place just jumping out at us

This was the entrance to our room at the little hotel where we stayed. The city has flowers everywhere.

This was the entrance to our room at the little hotel where we stayed. The city has flowers everywhere.

Our first time on horses since Mongolia

Our first time on horses since Mongolia

One of the things we love in Latin American churches is the way they make sure you know that Jesus suffered, like really suffered. Seriously suffered.

One of the things we love in Latin American churches is the way they make sure you know that Jesus suffered, like really suffered. Seriously suffered.

One more happy horse picture

One more happy horse picture

And oh yeah, a lunch salad with a little rosé. Did we mention this is a good life?

And oh yeah, a lunch salad with a little rosé. Did we mention this is a good life?

The waters of Playa del Carmen are some of the most beautiful in the world.

The waters of Playa del Carmen are some of the most beautiful in the world.

Playa del Carmen is a beach town maybe 30 miles south of Cancun that we’ve been to a number of times. It was where the very first VAN staff retreat was held in 2005, when there were maybe a total of seven people on staff. A year or so later we took my parents there for my Mom’s 70th birthday, and then we’ve been back a few times just because we love the beach. The town has grown enormously in just the nine years since we were first there, but it’s still a huge improvement over crazy Cancun. So, as long as we were in the Yucatan, you might as well spend another week there, right?

There is no substitute for finding a good bartender. This was a pretty small place, kind of a dive, but he learned to make our drinks just right...

There is no substitute for finding a good bartender. This was a pretty small place, kind of a dive, but he learned to make our drinks just right…

Our first stop was the same beach resort where we had that first retreat, and indeed the same place we took my parents. It’s still lush and beautiful, but we were so annoyed by the crappy Internet service that we left after just a couple days. Moved to a cheaper place off the beach where the Internet was decidedly better, so it felt almost like two separate little vacations, one on the beach and one in town.

Mostly, then, it was a lazy week of time on the beach reading and sleeping, lunch while it was typically raining, and then getting ready for dinner. Not a lot to write about, but a damned good way to spend a week.

Our next stop is San Miguel de Allende, an old artist colony a few hours northwest of Mexico City. Friends told us years ago it was a place we had to see and maybe even retire in. But while we’re not ready to settle down yet, it’s about time we saw the place before we head further south to spend six weeks or so in Costa Rica. Can’t wait for the adventure to continue!

The weather was off-and-on, but even when it was stormy it was beautiful

The weather was off-and-on, but even when it was stormy it was beautiful

We've really enjoyed chances to visit with friends and family on this adventure. Mark's Uncle Bill and Aunt Debbie had a day in Cozumel - an island off Play a few miles - while on a Caribbean cruise, so we caught a boat over there to have lunch with them. Such a treat!

We’ve really enjoyed chances to visit with friends and family on this adventure. Mark’s Uncle Bill and Aunt Debbie had a day in Cozumel – an island off Play a few miles – while on a Caribbean cruise, so we caught a boat over there to have lunch with them. Such a treat!

Bill, Debbie, and Mark

Bill, Debbie, and Mark

James Breen from our office (back in the days when we used to work) bottled some Negronis for us that he presented when we were in DC. We saved them for a special occasion, which just happened to be a rainy afternoon in Playa. Thanks James!

James Breen from our office (back in the days when we used to work) bottled some Negronis for us that he presented when we were in DC. We saved them for a special occasion, which just happened to be a rainy afternoon in Playa. Thanks James!

After a few days at a classic beach resort where the Internet was crappy, we moved inland to the Reina Roja, the Red Queen. It may be the most "fashion forward" place we've ever stayed. Bizarre, but fun.

After a few days at a classic beach resort where the Internet was crappy, we moved inland to the Reina Roja, the Red Queen. It may be the most “fashion forward” place we’ve ever stayed. Bizarre, but fun.

There were mannequins like this all over the lobby area. Strange indeed.

There were mannequins like this all over the lobby area. Strange indeed.

One last shot of a nearly perfect beach

One last shot of a nearly perfect beach