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All posts for the month March, 2014

Mark and Jim atop Rinca Island, having survived our encounters with dragons

Mark and Jim atop Rinca Island, having survived our encounters with dragons

View of the Flores Sea from Rinca Island

View of the Flores Sea from Rinca Island

Way back in 1996 Mark & I planned our first exotic, comparatively long vacation – a three week journey through Indonesia. At the time three weeks seemed like a long vacation, but even then we learned that we had to make difficult choices; there were just so many places we wanted to see. Then when we started planning this adventure, Indonesia was again at the top of the list of places we wanted to spend lots of time, to finally see the things we didn’t get to 17-plus years ago.

Fast forward, and of course we didn’t get to Indonesia as quickly as we’d earlier anticipated. In fact, were it not for Bart & Ann suggesting we meet in early April in Bali, we wouldn’t have come here at all. Today, though, I finally got to check off one of those items we’d had to pass on last century, the Komodo dragons found near Flores Island. I don’t know what it is, there is just something instinctive I feel about searching out dragons. Can’t figure it out.

You can't really tell from the picture, but this was a small, two-year-old dragon walking along

You can’t really tell from the picture, but this was a small, two-year-old dragon walking along

Komodos are the largest lizards on earth, growing up to nine or 10 feet in length, and found on only a couple islands in this area, the largest being Flores. Since we’re staying just off Flores and a relatively short boat ride from Komodo National Park on Rinca Island, off we headed this morning to get our first view of dragons.

An adult male Komodo dragon

An adult male Komodo dragon

And what did we learn from our encounters with dragons? Well, to be honest they look like big lizards more than dragons because, well, they are big lizards, not dragons. Still dangerous, though. When we were watching our first Komodo dragon up reasonably close and the park ranger was using a very big stick to keep it away Mark asked if they eat people. “Yeah,” he answered, in a tone that suggested there really are stupid questions. Then as the ranger took our little group of four out for a hike into the island he noticed that the Singaporean couple with us was lagging behind. He encouraged them to keep up with us, since the dragons sometimes come up from behind to get the slowest person in the group. They did.

Hiking across Rina Island. After being warned that Komodo dragons like to pick off the last one in a group, I stayed at the front. Mark lagged behind, believing his art was needed.

Hiking across Rinca Island. After being warned that Komodo dragons like to pick off the last one in a group, I stayed at the front. Mark lagged behind, believing his art was needed.

We also learned that Komodo youngsters must have some pretty serious psychological issues. They hatch underground after incubating for about eight months. When the baby dragons climb out they have to quickly find a tree to climb because otherwise they’ll be eaten … by their parents. Right. Komodo dragons are cannibals. Imagine growing up knowing that your mother would have eaten you given the chance. It would mess you up.

Our snorkeling spot on the way back from viewing dragons was really spectacular - an unbelievable number of colorful fish

Our snorkeling spot on the way back from viewing dragons was really spectacular – an unbelievable number of colorful fish

So that was our day. A boat trip to the park, a walk through some forests and fields, a stop to snorkel on the way back. Very cool.

Meanwhile, a word on our current location. After a week or so on and near Lombok, with another week to go before my brother Al comes to Bali for a weekend, we decided to head further east to Flores, the island we’d passed on 17 years ago. We discovered this great little 10-cabin resort on a small, private island maybe 20 minutes off Flores and here we are. There is really nothing to do here except read, sleep, eat, swim, and snorkel. So that’s what we’re doing this week.

The view of the Flores Sea and neighboring islands from our private beach on Angel Island

The view of the Flores Sea from our private beach on Angel Island

Getting here was an adventure, a three-boat, two-car, one-plane, and one horse-cart adventure. To be specific it was a horse cart on Gili Trawangan to the first boat, a mid-strait transfer from the first boat to the second boat when the first one died midway to Lombok, a race in a car to the airport since the whole dead-boat thing left us way behind schedule, a plane to Flores, a car to the harbor, and a boat to Angel Island. After that stress, we deserve some down time, right?

This was boat one. It could probably safely carry 40 or 45 of the 75 people on it. Then the motor died and we had to wait for a replacement to arrive and transfer (with our heavy luggage) while the two boats were bobbing in the sea. The woman on the left was a classic tiger mom - she didn't let her cute little son do *anything* she didn't like. (She wasn't hitting him here, just being very clear what was acceptable and what was not.) And yes, that's Mark on his iPad on the right.

This was boat one. It could probably safely carry 40 or 45 of the 75 people on it. Then the motor died and we had to wait for a replacement to arrive and transfer (with our heavy luggage) while the two boats were bobbing in the sea. The woman on the left was a classic tiger mom – she didn’t let her cute little son do *anything* she didn’t like. (She wasn’t hitting him here, just being very clear what was acceptable and what was not.) And yes, that’s Mark on his iPad on the right.

We’re going to spend a week here, then it’s back to Bali for three weeks and in mid-April off to Paris. Yea!

The mountains of Lombok form a spectacular backdrop to the beach on Gili Trawangan

The mountains of Lombok form a spectacular backdrop to the beach on Gili Trawangan


From Lombok we took an hour-long boat ride to Gili Trawangan, one of the little cluster of “Gili Islands” off the northwest corner of Lombok. Gili means “little island,” and these are idyllic little havens of palm trees, sandy beaches, and turquoise waters — but no motor vehicles.

The road along one side of Gili Trawangan is a bustling enclave of backpackers, beach bums, and all the bars, beach shacks, dive centers, and tattoo parlors they require. But walk just a few minutes off that main road and it feels like rural Indonesia.

The road in town is busy with locals and tourists alike going about their business

The road in town is busy with locals and tourists alike going about their business

Just a few minutes' walk or bike ride from town,  it feels like rural Indonesia

Just a few minutes’ walk or bike ride from town, it feels like rural Indonesia

Lunch break at a great beach shack

Lunch break at a great beach shack

Another day, another beachside lunch

Another day, another beachside lunch

We've been mostly just staring at this for four days

We’ve been mostly just staring at this for four days

After a blissful week in Bali we hopped a quick 25-minute flight to the neighboring island of Lombok. Here we checked into a pleasant resort for four days. Four days later, we can report something quite unusual for us: We’ve never left the resort.

For four days we’ve looked at the scene in the picture above. Who needs to leave that? On occasion we do actually get up from our loungers to cool off — sometimes in the pool and sometimes in that beautiful turquoise sea. It can be hard to decide.

We usually like to leave hotels and wander into town, at least for dinner. But this place is a little too perfect to even bother. We have breakfast at little tables set right at the edge of the sea. We have a pleasant lunch at one of the two elegant but reasonably-priced restaurants. And every night we’ve eaten in the bar, where they offer an amazing multi-course Thai dinner that changes each night. With a bottle of cheap Balinese rosé, it’s a formula worth repeating.

We have a total of 6 1/2 weeks in Indonesia, so in theory we would move east and visit lots more islands in this huge archipelago. But in reality we don’t think we’re going to get much beyond Bali and Lombok. Today we will wander slightly further to spend four days on Gili Trawangan, a tiny island just off the coast of Lombok. And then we think the main question will be whether to linger on in beautiful Lombok or head back to magical Bali. We can’t think of a compelling reason to do anything else for a while.

The day starts with breakfast by the sea

The day starts with breakfast by the sea