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All posts for the month October, 2013

Our first stop in Cambodia was Battambang, an old colonial town and the capital of Battambang province (“the rice bowl of Cambodia) in northwestern Cambodia. This was very much a low-key, stop – a little biking, a little time at the pool, and lots of good food.

Mark and I spent a week in Cambodia in January 2002 after having traveled through Vietnam. I remember noticing two things then: I’d never seen so many amputees and the people just didn’t seem as happy, didn’t smile as much as the Vietnamese. Both of those, I’m sure, were related to the then still recent history of the murderous Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. As many as 3 million people – out of a population of 8 million – died during his reign of terror, and even after the Vietnamese ousted him from power in 1979 he still operated near here in northwestern Cambodia until 1997. After one stop so far, things seem quite different, or at least different from my memory. People are poor, to be sure, but we encountered lots of smiling people. Perhaps time does heal eventually.

At any rate, here are some pictures of the area.

The border crossing in Pailin. There are legendary stories of hours-long lines at the border crossing a little south of here, but the crossing at Pailin - Pol Pot's last refuge - took but minutes as we walked from Thailand into Cambodia.

The border crossing in Pailin. There are legendary stories of hours-long lines at the border crossing a little south of here, but the crossing at Pailin – Pol Pot’s last refuge and pronounced the same as the name of the former half-term governor of Alaska, proving nothing good comes from a name like that – took but minutes as we walked from Thailand into Cambodia.

SIgns for the Cambodia People's Party were everywhere - as in easily five or more per kilometer as we drove towards Battambang. We're going to suggest to the DNC that they do the same. Maybe if there were signs that said "Democratic Party" with pictures of Barack Obama and Joe Biden every 200 yards or so along highways the Tea Party would love them. Right?

SIgns for the Cambodia People’s Party were everywhere – as in easily five or more per kilometer as we drove towards Battambang. We’re going to suggest to the DNC that they do the same. Maybe if there were signs that said “Democratic Party” with pictures of Barack Obama and Joe Biden every 200 yards or so along highways the Tea Party would love them. Right?

The food has been great. One or the other of us had this dish - fish amok, fish in a spicy peanut sauce, served in a banana leaf "bowl" - every day at lunch. Dinners were around $24 total, including wine!

The food has been great. One or the other of us had this dish – fish amok, fish in a spicy peanut sauce, served in a banana leaf “bowl” – every day at lunch. Dinners were around $24 total, including wine!

Mark's view of the pool at our hotel

Mark’s view of the pool at our hotel

I met these kids while biking outside of Battambang. They had a bug that they were very happy with.

I met these kids while biking outside of Battambang. They had a bug that they were very happy with.

The rice bowl of Cambodia

The rice bowl of Cambodia

This was the river I was biking along, and this is how residents move from one side of the river to the other.

This was the river I was biking along, and this is how residents move from one side of the river to the other.

Lots of temples along the bike route

Lots of temples along the bike route

Mark and I weren't the only lazy ones in Battambang...

Mark and I weren’t the only lazy ones in Battambang…

Putting the Bat into Battambang, we went to a Bat Cave. Yup, a cave outside of town where, at sunset, millions of bats fly out  for their nightly feeding.

Putting the Bat into Battambang, we went to a Bat Cave. Yup, a cave outside of town where, at sunset, millions of bats fly out for their nightly feeding.

The form a flowing, undulating "river" of bats every night

They form a flowing, undulating “river” of bats every night

Young monks came for the bat show, too

Young monks came for the bat show, too

Locals on bike

Locals on bike

And another cutie who liked riding with me

And another cutie who liked riding with me

 

After five heavenly days on Ko Samet, we’re back on the mainland en route to Cambodia. Our last stop (for now) in Thailand is an overnight in the pretty riverside city of Chanthaburi.

Gems are the business of this town. Apparently people from all over Asia come to buy and sell gems here. It’s not a touristy thing at all. In fact you hardly see any tourists here. But everyone everywhere seems to be involved with gems. People rent tables to show their wares.  Practically every storefront seems to have some gem angle. When you walk past the humblest house you might just see someone looking intently through a magnifying glass.

And when you are not dealing with gems you can take a break in one of the lovely little cafés that line the riverfront and enjoy great Thai cuisine and hospitality. In fact our dinner last night was the absolute best we’ve had in Thailand. Intense flavors. Crazy spicy. And dirt cheap.

A French style cathedral looks over the riverfront

A French style cathedral looks over the riverfront

Everyone is dealing with gems here

Everyone is dealing with gems here

Colorful temples dot the landscape in between gem stalls

Colorful temples dot the landscape in between gem stalls

Settling in for a perfect evening along the riverfront

Settling in for a perfect evening along the riverfront

The food we devoured at that cafe

The food we devoured at that cafe

Another place to pray for good gem sales

Another place to pray for good gem sales

Wow, it’s been a long time since I wrote anything here. I guess I’ve been on island time (yes, I know, even before we got to the island…).

OK, this wasn't actually our resort - just one of several amusing sights on our walk

OK, this wasn’t actually our resort – just one of several amusing sights on our walk

We came here from Bangkok and have been taking it easy. Really easy. A bit of a long walk one day, a little poking around, but really a lot of not much besides beach, beach restaurants, laying around reading, cards and vodka in the evening before dinner. Some of it, of course, has been the joyous reading about Democrats actually winning a battle in Congress; how often does that happen? But while there’s not much here, we’ve enjoyed our stay – so much, in fact, that we’re staying an extra day!

This is practically the definition of flexibility: we’re at breakfast at 8:00 AM yesterday, and are scheduled to get on a truck at 9:30 to take us to the port where we’ll catch a boat to the mainland. It’s been raining for a couple days, but the morning sky was mostly clear so I asked Mark, “Should we just stay another day?” Within 30 minutes we’d changed our reservation to just one night instead of two in Chanthaburi and added a day here.

The beach on a sunny day

The beach on a sunny day

The beach on a stormy day

The beach on a stormy day

We love our hotel – a little low key, but right on the beach, nice pool (that I haven’t been in … why would you go in a pool when you’re on an island in the Gulf of Thailand?), very relaxing. Except it appears as though someone took Mark’s sandals when he left them outside the door to keep from bringing sand in the room. Strange.

On the other hand, the good news is that Mark’s shoulder and back problems are much better. It’s probably some combination of just time, affordable massages, and tiger balm. Apparently the charge is about $8 for a 40-minute massage. Between that and the $12 lunches (that are really good), we can’t afford not to be in Thailand…

Colorful vendors

Colorful vendors

And colorful kids

And colorful kids

From here we’re moving inland, first to Chanthaburi, a small town where they sell gems, mostly just as a stop en route to the Cambodia border. Then we’re off to Battambang, Cambodia, an old colonial town that we’ve heard good things about. In fact, when we were chatting with a manager at the hotel and told him where we were going his eyes lit up and he told us he’s always wanted to go there. Well, that’s where we’re off to soon!