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All posts for the month September, 2013

It’s hard to believe that August is over, our three months in Eastern Europe have come to an end, and we have at last arrived in Italy, where we expect to spend at least five weeks.

Arriving in Brindisi harbor for our first glance of Italy

Arriving in Brindisi harbor for our first glance of Italy

On one hand we saw so much in those three months in Eastern Europe — from the vast expanses of Siberia to the beautiful pines of the Curonian Spit to the stunning cliffs of Montenegro. And yet it seems like we just scratched the surface of this incredible part of the world we set out to explore. I can’t help but to imagine when we’ll return to see the things we didn’t get to this time — castles in Romania, cafes in Belgrade, and lakes in Macedonia. And we still didn’t get to Moldova, nor do I yet have any sense of what is there.

Quiet streets bursting with personality

Quiet streets bursting with personality

Brindisi, our first stop in Italy, is mostly just a sleepover on our way to Naples. While we expected a gritty port town, we found so much more: streets bursting with whatever magic makes Italian towns so…um…Italian. It’s some combination of marble pavement stones, dull facades, ornate facades, faded grandeur, messy commercial buzz, traffic chaos, ancient monuments, coffee bars, iron railings, strollers, and cats and dogs going about their business.

And food. For dinner we found a perfect little trattoria on a perfect little side street. Four or five outdoor tables. Young people, old people, and some in between. A half carafe of house wine for €2.50. Food unassuming, cheap, and perfect. September is going to be a good month.

Two ancient columns marked the end of the Appian Way, the road from Rome to Brindisi. 1n 1666, the town gave the second column to neighboring Lecce for helping save Brindisi from with the plague.

Two ancient columns marked the end of the Appian Way, the road from Rome to Brindisi. 1n 1666, the town gave the second column to neighboring Lecce for helping save Brindisi from the plague.

Today is September 1, a big day for us. After exactly 100 days in current and former communist countries (plus three days in Finland), and after all these weeks across Asia and down through Eastern Europe, we’re driving a couple hours north up to Vlore and taking a ferry across to Italy. Western Europe. Familiar territory. We get into Brindisi this evening, then take a train to Naples tomorrow for four days, my first trip back since I left in 1976. From there we’re taking advantage of all this time we have by spending a total of 11 days on the three islands in the Bay of Naples – three nights on Procida, four on Ischia, and four on Capri. It should be glorious.

Meanwhile, we spent our last full day in Albania yesterday back on the beach. We drove about 20 minutes south to Jali to another beautiful beach, very popular with the twenty- and thirty-something crowd. Not much to say except beautiful water, lots of sun, and plenty of time to read.

The beach at Jali

The beach at Jali

The view from our palapa

The view from our palapa

Me and my Kindle

Me and my Kindle

So it’s farewell to Albania, a country struggling to leave behind its crazy Maoist communist past. The hotel we’re staying at here in Dhërmi is a great example. It’s brand new, opened just a month ago, and has some beautiful features. Still, there are things they’re still learning to get right. This picture of the elevator is a great example. You’ll notice it’s all bright and shiny and new. It’s only missing one thing – buttons to call it. Yup, they’ve put in the place for an elevator, but somehow there is no actual elevator there. They know what they’re supposed to do, it’s just the execution that’s challenging.

Everything but the elevator itself

Everything but the elevator itself