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All posts for the month September, 2013

We left Capri a couple of days ago, bound for Palermo, Sicily. We’ll write about Palermo soon, but I wanted to post a few last pictures of Capri. Suffice it to say that I 38 years after my first visit I still really love Capri. As humans have known for millennia – literally – it’s a spectacularly beautiful place. And, as has also been the case for millennia, there are some seriously rich people there. You can do very high-end shopping there, though one of the great things about our new lifestyle is that we can’t really buy anything. To be honest, paying hundreds of dollars for a sweater or swimsuit has never had much appeal for me, but I still love not even being tempted to shop.

The one thing we couldn’t understand was the mismatch between the cost of food and the quality of food. It was weird.  Not all the food was actually bad, but some of it was and none of it was cheap. I felt like asking – rhetorically, of course – whether rich people are just stupid.

‘Nuff said on that topic.

Our last full day was spent on a l-o-n-g hike. Up – and up and up – to the town of Anacapri, with its own high-end shopping scene, then down to the lighthouse and beach at the very southwestern tip of the island. We’d considered just staying at the beach there, but because of wind and rough seas, that wasn’t really in the cards. Plan B was that we’d hike around the western end of the island, on a trail that links a bunch of small forts built during the Napoleonic wars, as France and Britain fought over Capri. Well, the rough seas made the walk even more beautiful than it might otherwise have been, though that’s sort of gilding the lily. The trail took us to the Blue Grotto, which was closed because of the heavy seas, but we’d known that would happen so it was no surprise. From there it was another long walk back to the hotel and then a boat the next day – over even rougher seas – to Naples to catch a boat to Sicily.

That was Capri. Over the course of a few days we hiked the length and breadth of the island, up and down a lot of hill. One heavenly day at the beach. Food ranging from pretty good to pretty bad. But all of it surrounded by one of the most beautiful islands on earth. Not bad.

The very southwestern tip of Capri

The very southwestern tip of Capri

The rocky coast along the western edge

The rocky coast along the western edge

Upscale housing for the seriously rich

Upscale housing for the seriously rich

Happy Jim on the trail

Happy Jim on the trail

A view of the eastern end of Capri, the Bay of Naples, and a peninsula just south of Sorrento from the town of Anacapri

A view of the eastern end of Capri, the Bay of Naples, and a peninsula just south of Sorrento from the town of Anacapri. The Amalfi Coast starts just the other side of that peninsula.

Capri's incredible faraglioni, or "sea stacks"

Capri’s incredible faraglioni, or “sea stacks”

Monitoring part of the road leading up to the ruins of emperor Tiberius' villa

Monitoring part of the road leading up to the ruins of emperor Tiberius’ villa

The cliff near emperor Tiberius' villa from which inconvenient people, including recent lovers, were said to be thrown

The cliff from which Tiberius is said to have had inconvenient people, including recent lovers, thrown

Yes, that would be Sophia Loren's house

Yup, that would be Sophia Loren’s house

Afternoon wine and people watching works OK for Jim

Afternoon wine and people watching look good on Jim

Newsstand

Newsstand

Mark pays a visit to the newsstand

Mark pays a visit to the newsstand

Of the three islands in the Bay of Naples, we saved Capri for last, and now I know why. It is unimaginably beautiful!

This has been a stomping ground for the rich for a very long time. Tiberius, the second Roman emperor, spent a significant part of his life in a massive villa here. Two millennia later, the rich show off their sleek yachts here, shop for their Prada and Dolce & Gabbana, and throw money around in obscenely priced hotels and restaurants. It’s a fun scene to watch — in an incredibly beautiful place.

Checking out yet another stunning vista

Checking out yet another stunning vista

That is a smile driven by beautiful and delicious food -- not the big inflated prices here

That is a smile driven by beautiful and delicious food — not the big inflated prices here

Jim loves his reading spots and was quite pleased with this one

Jim loves his reading spots and was quite pleased with this one

The beach where we spent the day yesterday - and where we might be going right back today!

The beach where we spent the day yesterday – and where we might be going right back today!