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All posts for the month August, 2013

The town of Spišské Podhradie, dominated by the massive Spiš Castle

The town of Spišské Podhradie, dominated by the massive Spiš Castle

Mountain ranges have long served as major separators of people and cultures. But I never quite ‘got’ that until skirting around the Tatras Friday from Poland to Slovakia. Our bus ride was less than two hours, taking us up to an overpass from Zakopane, Poland and back down into the valleys of Slovakia.

Those walls would have been hard to bust through

Those walls would have been hard to bust through

We were stunned when we arrived at the bus station in Poprad, Slovakia, where we had to wait an hour to catch a more local bus to Levoča. People looked completely different! After two months in Russia, Poland, and the Baltic states, we were used to seeing an overwhelming majority of blond, fair people. Suddenly there was far more diversity, including a lot of very dark complected people, who are virtually non-existent in Baltic Europe. It truly felt like we had arrived someplace much more exotic, almost Middle Eastern.

The sweeping views from the castle

The sweeping views from the castle

We had unknowingly crossed the threshold between Northern and Southern Europe. And the difference was not just in the faces. In the Northern countries — Russia, the Baltics, Poland — buses and trains were extremely punctual. We’ve already taken several bus and train journeys in Slovakia now, and not one has been on time.

Contemplating life in the castle

Contemplating life in the castle

Once we arrived at Levoča, we checked into our nice little hotel and then headed to catch the third bus of the day to the town dominated by the massive ruins of Spiš Castle. Here we climbed the hill to visit this 12th century stronghold, once occupied by the kings of Hungary. The views were spectacular, and the castle had some interesting exhibits about the people who lived here and what it was like. As I was expressing my fascination with medieval times and what it would be like to see these castles in operation, Jim looked concerned and made me promise not to start going to Renaissance festivals.

I do not love flying ants

I do not love flying ants

And yes, there really were flying ants, but only at the top of the tallest tower in the castle. This notice was posted as you entered the skinny little stone staircase to climb to the top. We got up there and started to enjoy the view, but within seconds these highly annoying bugs were landing all over us. They won the day, because we climbed down again fast.

After spending the night in the quiet but pretty town of Levoča, we grabbed another bus to a train station in the next town to catch a supposedly four-hour train to the capital of Bratislava. To emphasize the fact that we are no longer in the cool, efficient north, our train left several minutes late and lost time throughout the journey, arriving in Bratislava 35 minutes late. And the 99 degree heat in the non-air conditioned train certainly helped foster the exotic atmosphere. Yup, we’re back in a heat wave with highs predicted in the high 90s and low 100s for a full week throughout the region. Yikes. Those Mediterranean beaches in Croatia are beckoning.

The climb up the hill

The climb up the hill

After our challenging accidental hike into Slovakia on Wednesday, we wanted something a little more manageable for our hike yesterday. We took a 30 minute bus ride to a big parking lot on the edge of Tatra National Park, from which you walk about five-and-a-half miles to Morskie Oko, which I assume translates to Morskie Lake (or perhaps Lake Oko, but either way you get the point). It was a steady uphill climb, but it was just a road you were walking on, so nothing too challenging.

Mark on the trail to Morskie Oko, with a horse carriage headed our way

Mark on the trail to Morskie Oko, with a horse carriage headed our way

What we found intriguing was that there was this major tourist attraction – there must have been thousands of people there on a Thursday – that you had to walk 11 miles round-trip to see. To be sure, there was an option to pay for a horse-drawn carriage most of the way, leaving only maybe the last mile-and-a-half or so on foot. Overwhelmingly, though, people walked the whole thing and everyone walked the final part. Old, young, parents pushing strollers, all sizes and shapes – people walked the 11 miles to and from Morskie Oko.

It just seems to me that in the U.S. there would be a ton of pressure to have buses schlepping people up and down the hill so families could manage it. In Poland, though, families did it on foot. Michelle Obama would approve!

Meanwhile, the walk itself was beautiful; nothing more or less than a beautiful walk in the mountains. Once we got up to Morskie Oko, we could see why it was such an attraction. Its clear waters reflect the steep mountains that surround it; even on a cloudy day it was stunning, though allegedly it’s even more beautiful on a sunny day.

At the edge of Morskie Oko

At the edge of Morskie Oko; note the hordes of people on the shore

There were a ton of people at the concession area where you arrive, but we discovered that there’s a trail around the lake, so off we took. There you could find little isolated spots to sit, read, eat a little, relax. As we continued around the lake – listed as an hour-long hike – we discovered another trail heading up, almost straight up, to what we thought must have been another lake, feeding Morskie Oko.

Isolation (and some food) on the trail around Morskie Oko

Isolation (and some food) on the trail around Morskie Oko

Up I went for an intense 20 minute climb to discover Czarny Staw, another beautiful lake in its own right, with stunning views of Morskie Oko. And, if you hiked around that lake, you could get to patches of snow so there I was, on August 1, playing in the snow. Maybe not heaven, but close enough for my purposes.

Morskie Oko from Czarny Staw above

Morskie Oko reflecting the surrounding mountains, from Czarny Staw above

Czarny Staw reflections

Czarny Staw reflections

More Czarny Staw

More Czarny Staw, reflecting the patches of snow

Crazy Czarny Staw reflections

Crazy Czarny Staw reflections

August 1, in the snow

August 1, in the snow

Me and the lake

Me and the lake

So today we leave Poland, though at 6:00 AM we’re not really sure where we’re going yet. We know we’re taking a reasonably quick bus into Poprad, Slovakia. From there we’re either going to catch another bus to Levoca, which is supposed to have great 13th century architecture preserved, or we may just get on a train and go straight to the capital, Bratislava. We’re being flexible these days.

We hiked to Slovakia yesterday. We didn’t expect to, when we left the hotel just after 9:00 AM. We stopped at a store to buy some food and water for the trail and off we went. It was about an hour’s walk, gradually uphill, to the entrance to Tatra National Park where there are well-marked trails. We made our choice, and off we went. Up. Up some more. Further up. Hours of up.

A hint that we were in Slovakia

A hint that we were in Slovakia

The most surprising thing for me at least was the number of people. You would think, wouldn’t you, that hiking in the Polish Carpathian Mountains you could find a little isolation? There were just a lot of people on the trail, and it wasn’t an easy climb. We realized at some point that part of the issue was that there were a lot of people coming down – they’d ridden up in a ski lift and were hiking down. Cheaters.

Finally we got to our high point at about 1:00 or so, having hiked four hours nearly non-stop. Mark pulled out my iPad Mini just to see where Google Maps said we were and saw we were maybe just barely across the Slovakian border. As we rested and ate a little, we then noticed a square white post with a big S on the side that would be Slovakia, and sure enough there was a big P on the Polish side. Yup, we were having lunch right smack on the border.

The trail then ran along the border for another hour – 10 meters into Slovakia here, back in Poland there – before we headed back down for another two hours back into Poland. Today we’re feeling a little beat, so not entirely sure what’s in order. Surprised, though, that we made it into Slovakia a little earlier than planned.

The view from our room in Zakopane

The view from our room in Zakopane

The view

The view

More view

More view

Mark on the trail

Mark on the trail

A lake

A lake en route

One foot in Slovakia, one in Poland

One foot in Slovakia, one in Poland. See the village in the valley below? We hiked from down there.

That's Slovakia behind us. Notice how tall Mark has become on this adventure...

That’s Slovakia behind us. Notice how tall Mark has become on this adventure…

Lefty made it up to Swanicka Pass, too

Lefty made it up to Swanicka Pass, too

Coming down is always harder - more work - than you expect. It was still beautiful, though.

Coming down is always harder – more work – than you expect. It was still beautiful, though.