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All posts for the month May, 2013

Food

We’re going to be writing a lot about food here – it’s pretty much our favorite part of traveling.  So here are some quick observations about food in Beijing after two days.

First, breakfast.  I love breakfast.  Anywhere.  It’s probably related to being a morning person, but pretty much anywhere I am I love breakfast.  Bacon and eggs at home (when we had a home…), croissants and baguettes in France, pho in Vietnam, espresso and cigarettes in Italy – it doesn’t get better than that.  And breakfasts in Beijing have been every bit as good.

So far we’ve gone to the same place both mornings, a no-name place down an alley where much of the food is cooked in the street.

Yesterday we had things that we could see and point to, but I watched people getting a soup-thing that I really wanted, so that was today.  Some boiling cauldron of stock out on the street, to which she added dumplings of some sort and greens.  Boiled for a few minutes and … ahhh, I’m a happy man.  Not sure how safe it is, but until I get sick that’s what I’m doing.

There can be, of course, a real challenge eating in a place like China, where we not only can’t speak the language, we can’t even begin to read it.  Last night, for instance, we stopped in a place we thought we’d like, but we ultimately couldn’t make heads or tails out of the menu.  The young woman trying to serve us would try to explain something, entirely in Mandarin, and when we made it clear we couldn’t understand it she’d write it on a piece of paper, as though we’d certainly get it if we just saw some Chinese symbols.  Finally we just had to leave; it was a case where we weren’t getting anywhere.  Instead we went to a place where they showed us how to cook and eat the hot pot – again, a boiling cauldron of stock, thin slices of beef and lamb, and a ton of vegetables.  Definitely worth waiting for.

"Healthy" Spinach, Eggplant, and Chicken Buried in Hot Peppers

“Healthy” Spinach, Eggplant, and Chicken Buried in Hot Peppers

Lunch today was pretty great.  It was in a very cool, hip “alley,” really one of the oldest streets in Beijing.  Feeling noble, I ordered crispy spinach.  Turns out the crispy is all about coating it in something good and then frying it.  Not too healthy, truth be told.  There was an OK eggplant dish, but the star of the meal was chicken with szechuan peppers.  Or, more accurately, szechuan peppers with some chicken added.  It was amazing.  When you got beyond the piles of hot red peppers, you noticed little black peppers – szechuan pepper, with the unique taste, as Mark put it, of cleaning fluid.  “But in a good way.

One other thing we learned there.  Two young people sitting next to us ordered a ton of food, including a pizza.  Did you know Chinese – at least these two Chinese – use chopsticks to eat their pizza?

Dinner tonight was at a really nice Peking Duck place, though we didn’t have any duck at all.  Most amusing, though, was the street food area we went through before dinner.  They had stuff you’ve never quite imagined eating, all ready to be grilled.  Not just lots of octopus – that’s pretty normal – but scorpions, silk worms, sheep balls, snakes, and, yes, tarantulas.  By those standards the pork liver we had for dinner was pretty tame!

Finally, the prices are really amazing.  Lunch – three dishes, two bottles of beer, two bottles of soda – was about $26.  Dinner was $32.  And breakfast is pennies – less than four dollars for both of us.  It’s as though you can’t afford not to come to China!

LA

OK, Los Angeles and Palm Springs weren’t on our official big adventure; we went there on our way to San Francisco before we flew to Beijing.  But they had a lot in common with the rest of what we’re doing – we weren’t visiting family, we’d never been to Palm Springs at all or to LA together, and they’re a completely different culture from what we’re used to.

Jim's first day of retirement

Jim’s first day of retirement

We drove into Palm Springs and we weren’t enamored; this Rat Pack-y home for the rich is just so artificial in a desert.  And when we checked into this very cool and very colorful hotel, the Saguaro, I said to Mark “I’m not sure I’m going to get Palm Springs.”  Of course, it didn’t help that it was 107 degrees, which, even if you’ve recently seen snowfall in Duluth, is just too damned hot.  But 24 hours later, after a morning hike in a canyon and some sweet pool time, Mark turned to me and asked “Why would we ever leave here?”

Hollywood Hills

Keith, Nick, and Mark in the Hollywood Hills

There is something to be said for lounging at a pool, reading in the heat, but we did leave after just two days to go to LA.  The thing that most stood out for me about LA was how happy our friends are there.  We visited three friends we know from different parts of our lives – Keith, who went to graduate school with us; Saul, who did Tom Harkin’s ’96 campaign with Mark; and Judith, who we’ve both worked with closely with in the world of organizers and political data.  And what they all had in common, besides being just great people, was how much they love LA.  How happy they are.  They’re dating, enjoying life, and just … did I mention how happy they are?

There was one other really cool moment in LA.  Saul took us for a bike ride down to the beach and along the bike trail in Venice Beach and Santa Monica.  At one point I noticed the trail had a name: the Marvin Braude Memorial Bikeway.  I thought “I bet I

Dedication of the Marvin Braude Bike Trail

Dedication of the Marvin Braude Bike Trail

(almost) know that guy!”  It turns out our neighbor in Cambridge (now ex-neighbor) is Ann Braude, whose father, I knew, had spent years on the LA city council.  Sure enough, he was a long-time promoter of the trail and it was dedicated to him just a couple years ago.  I love it when great city councilors make the world a better place, particularly when they’re your friend’s father!

For many years I’ve been pretty much an anti-LA guy; I’d spent a year in Long Beach when I’d been in the Navy and I didn’t love it.  Thirty years later I still couldn’t figure out why anyone would go to LA when San Francisco is in the world.  And I had no interest in going Palm Springs under any conditions.

Maybe I should have spent some time there before deciding that.  What a tragedy to learn that just as I leave the country!

Special thanks to Saul, Keith, and Judith for being such great hosts and showing me a part of the U.S. I didn’t know.  And oh yeah, one more thing: we did have our obligatory celebrity sighting.  Our last night in LA, we stopped at a little bar for an after-dinner drink.  We’re standing at the bar and Mark goes to the bathroom, when who walks up to take his place at the bar but Bill Maher.  Yup, that guy.  Mark had to kind of reach around him to get his drink when he came back, but we didn’t talk to him.  Let’s put it this way: Mark & I were on one side of him, and two young attractive women were on the other side.  We saw a lot of his back…

Birthday Breakfast in Beijing

Mark’s first breakfast on the big adventure

After five months of planning and three weeks traveling from Boston to San Francisco, we are finally underway.  We landed in Beijing last night and have already had some of those experiences that make traveling so much fun.  We got up pretty early and headed out to breakfast.  We stopped at the concierge desk to ask about street food in the area and the woman said there wasn’t any nearby, but they have a lovely breakfast buffet at the hotel.  Right – I can get something local for maybe $3 or pay $25 for the hotel buffet.  So Mark & I went out on our own and in about five minutes had found a street with a bunch of tiny local … restaurants?  Can you call them that?  They cook stuff out in the street but you sit in chairs at actual tables.  We got a bunch of stuffed buns that were *great*, a bowl of really bland bean porridge, and a big piece of fried bread that you eat with chopsticks. All for less than $2.  Take that, hotel buffet!

Then it was off on foot to Tiananmen Square, where I made my first little friendie.  Mark & I were trying to get our bearings, figure out what we wanted to do, when this little kid starts playing with me, waving his flag, dropping it, letting me pick it up, over and over again.  Basically, he was teaching me to fetch, with his mother capturing the whole thing on her camera.

So there you have it – great local food and cute kids.  What more do you need for a great adventure?  Now it’s off to lunch, on the hunt for some noodles.  Probably won’t be hard to find in Beijing!

Jim's new friend

Jim’s new friend